BULL, BLARNEY, VODKA & MIDNIGHT SUN

2008

THE DIARY NOTES

PART 1

Saturday 10th May 2008

Gidday all,

Arrived here in Barcelona after 31 hours of travel. Good flights, no dramas, but a loooooong time. A hot shower has never been more welcome once we finally got into our hotel room. We have a balcony overlooking La Rambla......hopefully will be able to use it before the end of the week.

Sunny Spain??? forget it! Pouring rain and apparently has been for a few days. More rain to come too. Umbrella sellers on every corner and in the railway stations and La Rambla.

Hotel we are in provides free snack food all day, ie cereals, bread, boiled eggs, and continental pastries plus fresh fruit. A bonus is free drinks, ie juice, coffee,tea, bottled water, lemonade/mixers and BEER. Have to pay for wine though. Not that they are big spenders. Beer can bought at Carrefours (supermarket) across the road from 25 euro cents a can. Wine starts at 49 euro cents a LITRE. Tried it last time and not too bad, left the enamel on our teeth and everything.

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Sunday 11th May

Left the hotel before 9am. Very quiet in the streets. Few people about. A side street off La Rambla was setting up a Sunday Market. Mostly preserved fruits in syrup (looked yummy), herbs and honey in jars and fresh honeycomb. This area took us into the Islamic area. Lots of shops (closed) advertising Halal food stores.

We eventually worked our way to the port area. Followed the coastline north passing many marinas, and restaurants (still closed). A long walk along the beach front showed the results of yesterdays storm. Still high seas, some surfers taking advantage of it. Loud speaker announcements proclaimed that due to sea conditions swimming was illegal. Lots of people ignored the warnings.

We eventually came upon Barcelonas only Casino. We were lured in by the sign outside saying we could win 25,000 euros for only 1 cent, we tried our best. Five euros later we left, poorer for the experience. An interesting note is that all people entering the casino must produce photo ID. Being non European Union citizens, we had to produce our passports to lose our money. Would have been a better day if we had left our passports at the hotel!

Further walking took us around the perimeter of the zoo. We ventured into the park alongside which also houses the parliament buildings. A beautiful park only spoilt by the smells from the zoo next door. After leaving her we got totally lost. wandering streets aimlessly, hoping to make sense of our map.

Six hours after leaving the hotel we found our way back. According to Phil's pedometer we had walked 17 miles. Considering the only times we sat down were at the casino and a brief stop in the park that could be right. Certainly feels right according to my feet and knees.

We have found out our choice of wine (49 cents per litre)is a good one. All the derros drink it, though some try to hide it (unsuccessfully) in paper bags.

Tastes okay though.

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Monday 12th

Up early again this am. Phil still saying he can't sleep because of noise in La Rambla overnight. I have gone out like a light both nights.( i guess only the pure hearted can sleep well at night) Today is some sort of Public Holiday, but don't know what for. Most shops are shut.

Today we headed off to get the funicular to the top of Parc de Montjuic which overlooks Barcelona and the Mediterranean Sea. Walked for an hour before trudging up a hill( which needed a funicular to get to the funicular station.)We then discovered we had actually passed the station so had to retrace our steps. Once at the top the views were spectacular. The gardens wonderful. Spent a lot of time in the Art Museum which is situated at the top of the hill. Many steps and escalators to descend the hill to get back to the main thoroughfare we needed to walk back to our hotel. At the traffic lights at the bottom of the hill we were involved in a minor "scuffle" in which a guy who had pushed in in front of us dropped some keys. he spun around and said he dropped his money.

We stepped back, very wary, and the guy then said "don't worry" and took off. A very well dressed woman then approached from the other direction and asked if we had all our belongings. We brushed her off, knowing our wallets were safe. Phil then discovered his hat which had been folded up and in his his back pocket was no longer there. He now has the problem of finding another daggy hat to complete our trip.

His pedometer says todays outing was 13.7 miles. My knees agree.

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Tuesday 13th May

Up early again. Too early for most attractions and parks. Very little opens before 10a.m. Decided we would walk down to Cathedral Barcelona in the Barri Gotic area. First area to built in Barcelona. Roman ruins etc. Out the front of the Cathedral a Chinese woman came up and said we should go inside as its free entry. What sort of cheapskate tourists do we look like??? We were going in anyway (coz we already KNEW it was free) we wanted to see the Holy geese in the cloisters. Big fat things they are. Must have been at the church too early because "Jesus" wasn't there. (People who have been to Barcelona will know what I mean.) While in the church we decided to light a candle. Only because its now high tech. Put a coin in the slot, (anything from 10c to 2 euro) and a "LED" candle lights up.Not sure if the mount of money determines how long the candle stays lit for. Being big spenders we put in 20c.

From there we walked to the local market where we ogled the fresh fish and veg, and marvelled ae the meat cuts we've never seen before. The market was so clean it would put South Melbourne and Victoria Markets to shame.

A few minutes train ride took us almost to the top of the hill where Guell Park is situated. The streets so steep they have escalators along the way. I knew from last year how steep it was, but some escalators today were not working, so had to lean on building walls along the way to gasp for breath. The park was full of tourists! Still managed to see the things we wanted to, so were happy with our trip there. Got lost (of course) once we left the park via a different entrance. A mile walk turned into 2 by the time we had retraced our steps looking for the railway station. Took the train to a huge shopping centre looking for a new sunhat for Phil to replace the one pinched yesterday. After a few false starts, finally got one. Most stores had "Billabong "brand etc for 38-40 Euros (about $70+ Aust). Finally found one in a sports store for a more reasonable amount.

Back to the hotel, exhausted as usual. Had to recover with some free beers, which the hotel provides as part of the deal, while sitting on the balcony watching the never ending parade of people on La Rambla.

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Wednesday 14th May

Today decided to leave the confines of Barcelona city and head via train Montserrat about 60 kms away. The train system in Barcelona is incredibly easy to use. Even us, non Spanish speaking folk can get around easily. The only English we have heard on the system was today. "Watch out for pick pockets". Too late for us but...... Our trip to the general railway system instead of the underground was easy. A ticket booth was set up for tourists wanting to visit Montserrat. The woman there gave us a form filled in with what tour we wanted, we then took it to a man in red and he pushed the appropriate buttons on the ticket machine. we only had to put in our debit card and pin number and the tickets popped out. Easier than trying to interpret the instructions in Spanish.

We must look very knowledgeable, as while waiting the hour for the train we had a few people approach us asking for directions. Of course we gave them, but also added "stick with us and we'll all get lost together". Nobody did! Our ticket included the rack railway up to the monastery and the funicular to the top track to St. Joans cave. Thought we were having an easy day of walking. Not so once we got to the top of the funicular. A hard slog up the hill. At times we were the only people on the path and it seemed like we were the only people left on earth. No sounds, not even birds. A different case once we got back to the monastery level. The sound was deafening, lots of school groups, bus loads of tourists, all seeming to be shouting at each other. We missed the choir in the church, but had a good look around before deciding we had enough and heading back to Barcelona. The train ride was mainly through Barcelona suburbs, a lot of it highrise, then lots of industrial areas interspersed with the occasional orchard. It was almost to Montserrat before we saw open countryside, mountains and valleys. Arrived back late for beer o clock.

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Thursday 15th May,

Our first walk today was to the port to check out buses for our embarkation on Sunday. From there we walked through the old city following the old roman fortress walls. Visited Palau Guell which is being restored. Free admittance, as only the ground floor and basement are available for viewing. After lots of to-ing and fro-ing around the streets, we stumbled into the "red light" district. How those ladies manage to stand around all day in such high heels amazes me. No wonder they have to lay down for a rest so often. Never admitting we were lost we kept wandering and eventually came across San Antoni market. Lots of fresh foods etc. Bought some cherries for 2.99E per kilo.A lot of hand waving, smiles and gestures conveyed we only wanted half a kilo. Walked along munching and spitting out cherry pips while on our way back to our hotel. The more we wander the back streets the more we come across hidden gems of architecture and open spaces, small plazas with fountains and palm trees etc. Many churches both large and small continue to fascinate us. Today we stumbled across a very small monument to saint Christopher, patron saint of travellers. Unhappily, like so many other monuments it has been defaced by graffiti. sad to think that so much that has survived for 6 or 7 hundred years has succumbed to be defaced by the invention of the spray can.

By the time we were back in the hotel Phil's pedometer measured 17.5 miles.

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Friday 16th May.

Our last day in Barcelona. Drizzling with rain when we left the hotel this morning before 9am. Didn't last long and the day turned out nicely, though very hazy all morning. Afternoon sunshine though.

Decided to walk away from the port and main city area and check out the fabulous architecture of the the surrounding streets. The older buildings have fabulous stained glass windows and elaborate iron balconies. At one stage, while looking at an ancient well, a council worker came up and initiated a conversation. He didn't speak any English but had a great chat and demonstrated how the well worked. Told him several times we didn't understand and he finally got the idea that we are from Australia, he had heard of Sydney and Melbourne. This only encouraged him more and he talked for several more minutes and was giving us directions to Parc Guell. We had already been there a few days ago so thanked him profusely and finally managed to continue our walk. Decided to hop the underground to go check out another Rambla a few miles from the centre of Barcelona. As we came out of the station another local saw us checking the map and working out which way to go from the station. Again, a rapid speech, with us not understandig a word he said. When we said "No Spanish" we were corrected. He was not Spanish but Catalunyan. Managed to convey to him we are from Australia and he then gave us a run down on the transport system. We could understand words like bus, tram and metro. With all his arm waving we still didn't know which way he told us to go, however we finally worked it out and set off for the rambla after shaking hands and thanking him.

The Rambla Poblenou is in a residential area and leads down to the ocean. Both sides of the rambla have local shops. A quite busy area with lots of locals doing their shopping. We walked to the beach end, had a brief sit and look at the ocean before retracing our steps for our first tram ride. All public transport use to date has been the underground.

While walking to the tram stop we spied a large Carrefours Supermarket so detoured into there for some food supplies. The trams are similar to ours but you cannot buy tickets on the actual tram. Ticket machines are on each tramstop. Tickets are validated once you are on the tram same as we do. The same ticket is good for buses, trains and trams. We bought a 10 trip ticket at the airport on arrival, and that has given us 9 trips so far. With that ticket, you can use it on any mode and all different types of transport for 1.25 hours. Of course daily tickets and single trip tickets are available. Our 10 trips ticket cost was 7.2 Euro ($12 Aust)

We are sorry to be leaving Barcelona. There is still so much to see and do. Getting around has been really easy for people with no Spanish language skills. The longest we have had to wait for any underground train has been 4 minutes.

At around midday tomorrow (Saturday) we Embark the Norwegian Jade at the Barcelona Port, and expect to wake up the next morning at Nice in France.

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                                                                                                                        PART 2

Saturday 17th May

Packing day at the hotel. Threw everything into suitcases including mixer drinks to lug onto ship. Dragged our cases to the Metro for a 2 station trip to the bottom of La Rambla (usually a 15minute walk). Then across the road to the port bus stop. Our timing was perfect, the bus driver was about to leave but waited for us. A few minutes bus ride and we were deposited at the ship.

Check in was really quick, then we had to wait about half an hour before we could board the ship. Coffee and pastries were available, but we just stood around and chatted to people from the hotel we had met from the Cruise Critic roll call. We were then asked to have the usual photo taken and line up for boarding. We were in about the first 50 people to board. Met at the top of the gangway with a free glass of champagne. Managed to scrounge a second before heading off to our stateroom. Have a large window in this one so can watch the water. Very exciting!

We had arranged a bar set-up for our room a few weeks ago, so we had bottles and Vodka and Gin waiting in our room. (We will make our own drinks up without trying to smuggle booze on board) At $40/Litre this way is far cheaper than paying $6-7 for a mixed drink at the bars.

Had arranged with the roll call members, about 75 of us, to all wear something red and meet at the bar near the swimming pool for a sail away drink. A very pleasant bunch of people, 7 of them being from Geelong, most others from various parts of the USA and Canada.

Returning to our cabin we were delighted to have received a huge fruit basket and a bottle of white wine, due to having been upgraded to "gold" status in the Latitudes Club. (NCL's Frequent traveller loyalty scheme) Also have invitation to the captains cocktail party for Latitudes members, in a few days time, (along with probably half the other passengers)!!??

Dined tonight, at Le Bistro, French restaurant, one of the surcharged speciality restaurants, on the cheapskate package of dine early and get two for one price ($15). The food was superb. We waddled around the ship for while then back to cabin to flake out for an early night. All the walking in Barcelona has caught up with us.

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Sunday 18th May

Woke this morning in Nice, France. Had a nice cooked to order breakfast in the Grand Restaurant. Phil a couple of over easy eggs, ham and baked beans; Sue eggs benedict. Had to tender in to dock area on the life boats. 3000+ people trying to get off the boat at once makes for long queues.

We had been issued with a priority tender ticket (being gold class passengers) but just joined the first queue we could so will save the priority ones for another time. Once on shore we first walked along the beach top promenade. Being fairly early there were not many people on the beach which does not have sand but rocks for people to sit on. From there we walked to the old town and inspected the market stalls. Mainly flowers, lots of roses, sweet peas and bougenvillias. Lots of vegetables too. Tomatoes from 2euro per kilo, dearest were the humble potatos, 2.99 euro per kilo for the cheapest. ($4+)

Wandered the old town for a while then decided to hop on the new tram system to check out where it went. It was just being installed last year. First trip took us to some fairly boring and run down suburbs where the only sign of life was people walking home from the bakery, arms full of bread, while still dressed in pyjamas and dressing gowns. We took the next tram to the other end of the line, through the centre of town to rather more affluent suburbs and finished up in the tram depot. Who says the Anderson's don't know how to have fun?

Swapped trams again and alighted in the main city area where we just wandered about looking at buildings and fountains. Here the fountains were working, unlike Spain where they are all turned off.

Back through the market to the beach which was much more lively. Lots of people wandering about. More people on the shore than in the water though.

Had a late lunch back on board, in the Blue Lagoon restaurant. Kept it light, and just had a clear soup followed by English fish and chips. Very good too!

Set sail for Livorno Italy around 5.30pm. The shore was soon lost to sight because of the extremely hazy conditions as we passed by Cannes and Monaco.

A 9pm late dinner planned for tonight. We have a Cruise Critic "Jaded Sailors" group booking in the Grand Pacific dining room.

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Monday 19th May

After a late night dining with the Jaded Sailors it was up again at sparrows, to of course have another breakfast/eating session, before heading off on a 9.5 hour excursion through the Cinque Terre. After a two hour bus ride we alighted at the bus area at the top of the first village. A steep downhill walk got us into the centre of the village which is perched on the cliff rising from the sea. A narrow pathway took us to the next village where after a few minutes looking around we boarded a ferry which then took us to other villages further along the coastline. The weather was perfect for being on top deck on the ferry. The ferries land at the rocks at the base of the cliffs, no proper piers or jetties. It's off the rocks and onto the gangway which rides up and down with the waves. Can see why they don't run if the seas are too rough. The other option to get between villages is the train line which runs along the coastline mainly through tunnels, but stopping at each village.

We had a couple of hours at the last village where we could have bought lunch or shopped. We chose to wander from the "old" village to the "new" village via a tunnel through the cliff face. After much walking in the sun we wandered back to our pre arranged pick up point and sat in the shade for a while. Shortly thereafter very loud thunder could be heard. We had about half a mile walk to our bus and of course, the skies opened and down came the rain. By the time we got on the bus everybody was soaking wet, the streets running with inches of water. We then had a two hour bus ride back to the ship around steep winding narrow roads until we eventually hit the autostrade and back to Livorno. First stop in the ship was a hot shower then and into dry clothing before wandering to the top lounge with our drinks in hand to watch the sail away from top vantage position. However, for some reason, we were late leaving so spent the time watching nearby container ships get loaded and then sail away. By the time we left it was dark and the rain had started again.

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Tuesday 20th May

Woke this morning in Civitavecchia, the port for Rome. The seas extremely rough, but the port is well sheltered. Had decided not to go into Rome this trip but check out the local area. Once again it poured rain. We soon got soaked in spite of our raincoats. Umbrellas are useless because of the strong winds. Rubbish bins a long the street are a testament to that.

Cittavecchia is an ancient port which had some very important ruins and wonderful buildings. However they all got bombed during the second world war so not much to see apart from pretty ordinary post war buildings.

Found the local market which had some good stalls. Reasonable prices though quality not as good as some others we have seen.

In the meat section a whole roasted pig lay along side raw meat. Don't think the food inspectors at home would like that.

The port authority provides a free bus shuttle from the ship to the port gate and return. Our bus driver on the way back soundly abused all us passengers from the Norwegian Jade after he dropped off passengers from another ship. As it was all in Italian we don't know exactly what it was but he obviously didn't like us. Had money ready for his "tip" basket but he didn't get it. Spent the rest of the afternoon on board, and after dinner, may take in a live show at the ship theatre, (a spectacular 3 story venue, hard to beleive its on a ship) or in the Spinnaker show lounge.

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Wednesday 21st May

We arrived, and docked in Naples just before 7AM this morning. We had originally planned to take a ferry to the Isle of Capri for the morning, and then to return and take a train to Herculaneum. After breakfast, we decided to alter the plan, and totally play by ear. Since it was very overcast, and threatening rain, it would be not much fun walking around on the island and getting soaked. We had rain jackets and brollys with us, but it still would not make for a pleasant day. We first headed on a discovery walk of Naples, in the direction of the train main station.

We considered that we would finally decide on Herculaneum if, and when we got to the station. On the way, it was "coats on" then "coats off" several times when short but heavy showers stopped us in our tracks. We continued along to the station, but thought better of the whole idea when we encountered heavier rain.

We set off to explore more of the streets of Naples. Wandered around and decided that this is the dirtiest place we have been to. On a par if not worse than Tijuana. Piles of rubbish everywhere including broken furniture and piles of wood. Rotting bags of garbage everywhere. Not helped by the poor condition of street and footpath surfaces, and ever constant piles of dog poo.

Traffic is chaotic, think all the drivers are colour blind. Trying to cross the streets at the traffic lights was pretty frustrating. When enough locals had gathered they walked regardless of the colour of the traffic lights. We joined them. After 3 hours we had enough and made our way back to the ship.

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Thursday 22nd May

Sailed out from Naples at 8PM last night, and had a scheduled late (10am) arrival at Cagliari in Sardinia. The local people provided free shuttle busses into the town area, from where we both started our usual discovery trekking.

The main street of Cagliari is along the waterfront. A very wide road lined with palm trees, lots of shops and restaurants. The first thing that impressed us was the cleanliness in comparison to Naples. Another wide avenue was lined with Jacaranda trees all just begining to flower. We trudged up a hill towards the cathedral and old fort and were relieved to find a lift to take us almost to the top. Great views from along the top road to over the town and port area.

After we inspected the old buildings at the top we wandered down hill into a local suburban area. Population here is 160.000 and I think they all chose today to drive their car or motor scooter in the streets we were walking. Some streets have no footpaths so we had to dodge in between parked cars to avoid being run over. Quite nerve racking. Many minutes later I discovered Phil thought we were walking in the direction of the port, but we were actually going away from it. So we had to retrace our steps, climb up over the hill again and head down to the port area.

Back at the dock we discovered a few tents had been erected alongside the ship selling local cheese and wine. So of course he joined the throng for the free tastings. Decided the wine we were buying in Spain for 49c a litre was better so had no intention of handing over 10 euros a bottle.

On returning from on shore we found a platter of chocolate coated strawberries waiting for us. Another bonus from the Latitudes Club.

Sailed away at 4 pm today while we sat in "our" bar and watched the hordes play bingo.

Weather was a beautiful 24C. Hopefully, the rain has gone for a few days.

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Friday 23rd May

An "at sea" day today, as the ship continues through the Mediterranian to our next stop at Malaga in Spain. A beautiful day of around 27 degrees sees most people relaxing around the ship, with most deck chairs occupied. The pools area is a very popular spot, with barbeques fired up, and a band playing.

We attended two functions today, the first being a "gift exchange/meet and greet" for Cruise Critics "Jaded Sailors" group where the Captain and Management team met with us for a private get together in one of the restaurants. Refreshments and snacks were provided, although most declined the food. Not enough time nor an inclination to eat continuously. Each couple brought a gift along from their hometown. All gifts were numbered and one by one we picked a numbered ticket from a bowl to correspond with the number which had been placed on the gift. We took along an Australian motif apron and a hat with corks. The hat proved very popular and now have orders to post two to the USA once we get home. We received a photo frame from the "big apple".

Just had time to squeeze in lunch before the Latitude Members cocktail party with the captain and officers. (They were busy today meeting everyone). Managed two rum punch drinks there before they drew a raffle. Sadly we didn't win anything. It was like old home day, the Captain is same guy who steered us thru the Caribbean last year on the Norwegian Jewel.

Three whales were sighted this morning, Phil saw them, I missed out.

Tonight was "whatever night". That is, for those who are treating a cruise as a very very special occasion and also like dressing up, tonight was the night to do. All the glitz and Glamour of an Oscars night for those that want that sort of thing, but not exactly our "cup of tea".

The Captain also had to be available tonight to have his photo taken with them, the same routine that I guess the poor guy has had to do every week of his "top dude" life.

It was "Lobster" night in the main dining venues tonight. We also had a scallop Appetiser to kick dinner off.. MMM

That ends the first 7 nights on the Norwegian Jade, and we have so far had a great cruise. Now 6 to go!!

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PART 3

Saturday 24th May

Back in Spain today. Malaga is a very nice city which is the capital of the Costa de Sol. We were bussed from the ship to the front of the port area adjacent to the city. With our tourist map showing various walks we set out bright and early. First walk took us into the historical area. Lots of old buildings most in a state of disrepair but all carrying signs they are to undergo renovation. Still interesting to see the different architectural styles.

Second walk was through the main city centre through winding streets. The main street is very wide with street poles adorned with flowers, vey pretty. Some sort of religious festival was being set up. Stages draped in red with assorted religious statues and candelabras. Several streets later we came to the main cathedral where we were accosted by a group of gypsies. They blocked our way and thrust a sprig of rosemary into our hands. Then grabbed our hands and gave us a palm reading. All in spanish so no idea what life holds for us. Phil could understand he's to have many bambinos. He was not impressed. When we refused to give them money they grabbed the rosemary back and cursed us. We could understand that. Phil said "NO Money for you - just for coffee" or something similar to his fortune teller. Later another gypsy went to sell/pin a flower to Sue. She too, was given a lesson about coffee.

We eventually came to the Alcazaba fortress. Has to be the best 2 euros we've spent so far on the trip. Next to an old roman theatre its a fortress thats spreads along a cliff. Inside the walls the paths climb up through many gardens to the main building which houses some artifacts from the 8th century. The archways are intricately formed and the ceilings ornate. Great views from the top. Many steep stairs to viewing points along the top of the wall.

Third walk was through the gardens along the main street fronting the port area. Quite a rainforest with plants from all over the world.

A festival was also happening along this area. Amnesty International was involved and seemed to be about exploitation of third world countries. Hard to know for sure when you are guessing the meaning of the Spanish wording on the displays.

Along the way Phil managed to pry an advertising poster for tomorrows bullfight off a wall. A large bullring is in close proximity to town.

Now the challenge will be to get the poster back to Australia in good condition.

Before returning to the ship we revisited the main mall, to see how the set-up was going for the festivities. The usual buskers etc,(and some very good creative ones too). Another gypsy woman was approaching everyone for money as she walked up the street. She was bemused and repeated what Phil said when he loudly told her "NO - Just far coffee". I dont think she really understood?

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Sunday 25th May

Never laugh at a gyspy curse!

This morning I (Sue) woke up with a sore throat, red eyes. runny nose and an aching jaw. Bet the old crone would have a laughing fit if she knew (probably does) how miserable I feel.

Woke up this morning as we about to dock in Gibraltar. (The Rock) Hissing down with rain, so wasn't a pleasant greeting. Whilst we really wanted to take the aerial cable car to the top, decided to wait for rain to stop before leaving the ship. Finally disembarked just after 2PM, so did a quick walk around town on our way to cable car area. The queues were Loong, and it seemed like only about 14 ppl could go in the car, and there is only 2 of them. (One goes up whilst other goes down) Figured that by the time we got up, we would have to immediately join another queue to get down, since we had to be back on board by 4:30PM.

Monkeys roam freely in Gibraltar, but they are mostly living around caves on the mountain, so sadly will have to see them next time?

Didnt want to risk being left behind, so just wandered around looking at historical cemetery etc. Most of the people in the cemetery were the wounded who didn't survive the battle of Trafalgar. (In beautiful sunshine by the way - just like Melb 4 seasons in one day) The UK owned "Rock" is only around 6 Sq KM in area with a population of just on 28,000, so unused land is non existant. The airstrip crosses a road, so it is fun to watch the road being closed to traffic, when jets are taking off or landing.

Arrived back at ship for a fantastic sail-away having buckets of beer on the back deck. Quite an experience to sail away from the Rock, and passing thru the only entry to Mediterranian, passing with the European continent (Spain) on one side, and the African continent (Algeria) on the other.

Entertainment on the ship the last two nights has been fantastic. A 5 girl show featuring the hits from the 60's,70's and 80's, and a magician from Russia with a show that left us amazed.

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Monday 26th MaY

A change of clocks overnight gives us an extra hour in bed this morning, as we open the curtains for sunrise in Spain again. OR, so we thought!! Actually last nights news-letter left in the cabin, was referring to TONIGHT. So when we arrived at our favourite breakfast restaurant it was already closed, so had to rough it with the masses in the Whaling station. Not a pretty site!

This time we are docked in the City of Cadiz in Spain. We decided on our own walking discovery tour once again and set out to explore.

The tourist information booth at the entrance of the port was only a selling point for the hop on hop off bus. When I asked for a map they said "NO" so I asked for the route map of where the bus goes. Got my map then.

Once we walked into town (about 200 metres) discovered the real tourist walks were marked by coloured lines. Just follow the coloured line to see the sites you are interest in. We ended up doing all the walks as Cadiz is not a big place. The usual windy streets, most places of interest marked with signs both in English and Spanish which was helpful. Amused to see that most of the historic places told us what it looked before it was modernised.

Cadiz is on an island so our walk took us from one side to the other. Along a breakwall by the sea live a colony of feral cats. Dozens of them. People obviously feed them as there were bowls of water and piles of cat food. The smell of cats and rotten cat food was a bit much in some places.

The parks along the ocean front are beautifully kept. Paved areas, pergolas and duck ponds. Very pretty.

Once back into the town area we were delighted to find many plazas where one could sit among the trees and flower gardens. One plaza featured plants from Australia, Moreton Bay figs and ficas from Lord Howe Island. The housing is apartment blocks, the ones with front doors open afforded us views of tiled hallways usually opening onto a courtyard.

The local market had only a few stalls open, mainly fruit and veg. Our fave store Carrfours was across the road so we stocked up on a few essentials. Vodka. As you cannot bring liquor on the boat for immediate consumption we had to have it put into storage until we can retrieve it on our last night on board. We need extra supplies for UK, and 700ml bottles cost about equiv to AUD$6.00 here in Spain.

Had dinner with 4 people we were introduced too at the "Grand Pacific". They were from USA. Slow service tonight, taking about 1.5 hours, causing us to be late for a new show that was to start at 9:30. Ended up so bad, that it was a pity that after arriving late we couldnt unobtrusively walk out. A duo called "Mimusen", a couple of German? blokes billed as a cross between Buster Keaton and Mr Bean mime/slapstick stuff. Maybe we're dumb, anything that was good in the act was certainly over our heads._______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Tuesday 27th May

As we looked at the early morning rain outside our stateroom window, we were hoping that our very first taste of Portugal, was not going to be a repeat of Gibraltar. But, at least our clocks are set correctly today. We started the day returning for breakfast once again in the "Grand Pacific" dining room, and the ship arrived in Lisbon (Pop - 2 million) at around 9AM. (Most arrivals to date have been much earlier).

Raining when we left the ship to join the queue for the free bus shuttle (provided by the city of Lisbon) from the port into the city centre. Bus finally came and it was a mad scramble to get on board. It fined up not long after, so once again we didn't need our jackets and brollies.

Once in the city we headed off with a very basic map to explore the city. Decided we would visit the Castelo de Sao Jorge where Vasco De Gama visited King Manuel 1 after returning from India in the 1600's. Of course, it had to be on top of a hill. After staggering up many many steps we faced a choice of whether to go left or right. Figuring we had not reached the top of the hill yet, we chose left. Wrong choice. Wandered up more narrow cobble stone streets, down hills, up more hills before we finally found the entrance. And of course it was up yet another hill. It was worth the effort once we were there.

Once inside the walls we had terrific views all over Lisbon. The buildings themselves are in pretty good nick. Could climb up onto the battlements and walk around the very top of the wall. The gardens featured some really old trees. Lots of peacocks and cats in the gardens.

The area around the castle is called the Alfama district originally inhabited by the Moors in the 6th century. The roads are very narrow which causes a few frayed nerves when cars come hurtling around the corner and you have to hug the wall to avoid them.

Electric trams run throughout the city including the Alfama area. We didn't try them as we decided to keep walking. After much wandering we ended up back in the city area and after a walk around there decided we would head back to the ship. Only problem was we coldn't remember which bus stop in the main square we had been dropped off at. Eventually found the stop and joined the throng of others waiting also. We all managed to squash on the bus which was amazing. Had anyone fainted they wouldn't have hit the floor as we were packed very tightly.

On of the shops we encountered along the way was a sardine shop. That's all they sold. Tins of sardines with every imaginable type of oil, sauce and spice.

Didn't price them as we weren't in the market for a tin of sardines a the time.

While we enjoyed Lisbon, and didn't see all of it, it's not a place we would rush back to.

Did we ever mention FOOD? Back aboard, had late lunch, and watched a bingo session plus a bit of other entertainment that was happening. Around 5:30 couldnt resist an early appetiser of Prawn cocktails again, plus plate of mussells. We really surprised ourselves later, when we decided to forego dinner and opt for soup and a snack !!! We also did not indulge in the "Chocaholics Buffet" which was scheduled for 10pm. (Everything chocolate deserts and cakes, and nothing else).. Wonders will never cease!! We were pretty sore after walking up and down steps and hills all day, and went to bed before 10 and watched T.V.

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Wednesday 28th May

Another time change overnight meant that we lost another hours sleep and awoke just before the Norwegian Jade was cruising into our last port of call, Vigo, Spain.

Vigo is another city which is very hilly, but the roads and pathways working away from the shoreline are built as sloping, rather than as steps. Unlike our last city, Lisbon, the walking expedition today was also not over cobblestones, so seemed a lot easier.

As with all places we have visited in Spain, Vigo is very clean. Not a remarkable town but pleasant to walk around. Lots of treed plazas and flower boxes on most corners overflowing with all colours of petunias.

We have found every city visited in Spain to be clean, relatively cheap, loaded with history, and very easy to get around. Will be somewhere else to put on "come back to" list.

Joined with 4 others, (we all happened to be waiting in line to enter restaurant), from Jaded Sailors group for a pleasant dinner in the Grand Pacific tonight, before heading off to the 9:30 show in the Stardust. The show was a musical "Smokey Joes Cafe" and was followed by the traditional farewell/introduction/thankyou thingy to and from the Jade crew, where representives from all departments walk through theatre to the stage. There are over 1100 crew members on board. Gabrielle, who we remember as the Assistant CD on the MP with us last year, led proceedings by singing the NCL "theme song" as it was all happening. She is now "cruise staff administrator" on the Jade. We will attempt to catch up with her again. We reckon she will run the other way, but she could never forget the hard time us Aussies gave her on last years Marco Polo cruise. (especially the trivia, and also having to buy all those drinks for us. Thanks again Pat))

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Thursday 29th May

A sea day today, and also an extra hours sleep-in. (Yes, clocks back again overnight), so have been able to properly rest the colds we seemed to have picked up somewhere. An easy day, including a Latitudes wine and cheese tasting party. This Latitudes status is pretty good, we were also called to see if we would like priority in getting off the ship before the hoards. Since we are travelling reasonably light, whereby we can handle our own luggage anyway, we however, opted to disembark ourselves whenever we want to go.

Took in a game of Bingo, got over half our "investment" back. Reckon that means that we won! Amongst a mountain of activities on board in which we didnt partake, we only booked dinner in Cagneys Steakhouse restaurant to finish off the cruise.

4,000 Miles (6,700KM), and 13 nights on the Norwegian Jade sees the end to another great part of this years expedition.

Next up, two weeks around England..

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PART 4

Friday 29th May

The Norwegian Jade arrived in Southampton, UK in the early hours of the morning while we were sleeping. Woke early to use the computer for the last time on the ship.

Disembarkation was a painless process having opted to take our own luggage off the ship rather than wait until "colour coded" luggage was available on the dock. Stayed on until almost 9am when we had arranged to ring the car hire mob to pick us up. Problems with contacting them meant they didn't arrive until after 10am. Once picked up though, everything went smoothly and we were soon on our way towards Ringwood. The car is a manual 3 door hatchback Vauxhall Corsa, near new. Goes okay and is supposedly light on fuel. It would want to be as petrol, unleaded, is the equivalent to our $2.40 per litre. To fill the car (37 litres) was GBP44. (A$91)

On the way to Ringwood we saw an ASDA truck. (i.e Walmart type store) So we decided to follow it, as Phil was looking for a GPS and a foam esky. Followed the truck right into Bournemouth to the loading bay area and then had to find our way to the front of the store. Got the GPS no worries, equiv to AUD $144.00 with UK and Ireland maps incl., so very happy with the deal --- but foam eskies are as scarcer than hens teeth. Could be something to do with environmental pollution laws. Was even prepared to ask for polystyrene coolers, but no luck, they simply don't have them. At this stage we have no way of cooling beer, as ice in hotels/motels (the cheap ones we stay in) is non existent, as are room fridges. We have compromised by buying a 3 litre wine cask of Australian wine for the grand cost of GBP12. (A$25.) Not as good as Aldi's cheapo but going down nicely as we couldn't afford wine on the ship.

The shopping centre was chaotic. Took about 25 mins to get in the car park, once in the queue there was no way out, and about the same once we were trying to get out. At times, total gridlock.

We found our motel Travelodge without any difficulty. Travelodge's are mostly on the motorways, as is this one. The town of Ringwood is actually about 5 miles from the motel. We stopped off in Ringwood to hit an ATM for some English currency, and found it to be a really nice little place.

Almost all of our stays within the UK were booked with Travelodge. As cheapskates, four years ago, we chased down a heap of internet on line special deals, and did the same thing for this trip. With the exception of about 4 nights, we managed to get rooms for 26 quid (GBP)a night for those stays. (normal rate is 69-89GBP) We will also be based from London 3 times this trip, and where we couldn't secure the deals we wanted with Travelodge, we bidded on Priceline for deals. The only catch with the systems we use, is that ther'e "pay in full when reserved, and booking cannot be altered or refunded"

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Saturday 30th May

Set up our new friend, (The GPS Navigation system) and headed off to where we were told, with some selective diversions along the way. Found diverting off the beaten track easy by using the system, because although we didnt know where we were most of the time, it was quick to rejoin our original route from a different path.

First diversion was to follow a sign to the town of Anderson in Devon. It was there that we found a dozen houses and no horse, but very quaint town, with its only claim to fame "Anderson Manor". Many squashed rabbits on the roadway. No free lunch there, so continued on towards our first destination, the town of "Beer". Got free parking here from a kind man who was leaving the parking area and still had two hours left on his ticket. On our last visit here we particularly liked the pasties from a small deli shop, and had dreamt of returning for a re-run. Well, we did that, and walked around the beautiful town, sat for a while, enjoying the comings and goings of small fishing boats, and then drove to a small headland for a coffee.

Drove through Sidmouth, another village on the coast, and had a walk around. Lots of people on the beaches and waterfront areas and just walking around. Being a holiday weekend lots of people everywhere.

Eventually made it to Exeter and after a drive around, found a laundromat and did our first washing load since leaving Melbourne. All other has been done by hand so it was a treat to sit and watch the machine go round. At the back of our motel room there is a large grassed area which separates us from the next wing of the motel. This area is populated by many huge rabbits who munch their way around the grassy area.

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Sunday 1st June

Up early this morning and on the road before 8.am. Headed off to Cornwall to see Port Isaac. Many miles of motorway and narrow laneways brought us into the village about an hour and a half later. Being early, we were able to park at the lower town car park. Its actually on the beach in the harbour and is only used when the tide is out. We were warned we'd have to move by 1pm which wasn't a problem for us.

Wandered the streets which are very narrow, one car width, and very steep. Saw Doc Marten's house and did a bit of a walk along the coastal path. Great views along the Cornish Coast. At first appearance the town was full of torn open garbage bags and very messy, we thought it must have been a dog problem though we saw a horse munching his way through one. However, on talking to a council worker, he told us it is the seagulls that rip everything apart. In about an hour the place was spotlessly clean. Obviously a very hard working council employee. He passed us twice in his truck and waved both times. Must have liked our chat.

Lots of B&B's in and restaurants the town .

Moving on we headed to Tintagel, home of King Arthur's Castle. Built on a headland it's now a pile of rocks and a few remaining walls. The town is full of souvenir shops and cafes, restaurants. Watched the local baker hand make cornish pasties in his window, a la Gillies in Bendigo. Tried one, very expensive but the size of a house brick, so we shared one. NOT half as good as the one from Beer for half the price.

Then set forth for Torquay back in Devon. Had some interesting detours along the way. Small laneways with huge hedgerows either side and trees overhanging which made it seem in places like a tunnel. Torquay was very busy. Not sure if it was so busy because of the bank holiday long weekend, or is always so busy. Fluked a FREE parking spot which is a bonus. (Mostly a minimum of one pound to park anywhere) After a short walk around headed back to Exeter where we spent a frustrating time trying to find a bottle shop. Gave up in the end.

At one stage today we passed Launceston which is situated on the River Tamar. The landscape is very green and lush. Cows are up to their belly in thick grass.

The weather the last two days has been fantastic, but rain is always predicted. About 20C both days.

Have named our GPS "Maggie" after Margaret Thatcher. (After all, she was very good at telling people where to go.) So now instead of Phil yelling at me when he makes a wrong turn, he blames Maggie. A much more relaxing trip for me.

The rabbits at the back of the motel are having a hard time today. As I write this 14 of them are in the grassy area being chased by a small blackbird which is pulling fur from their coats when it can catch them.

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Monday 2nd June

Left the motel this morning for a short trip into Exeter to see the town. Took a wrong turn on the roundabout and finished up on the motorway. several miles later we were able to exit and make our way back to Exeter. Once in town we found a parking spot easily in one of the many parking garages.

The town has a magnificent cathedral and many Roman ruins, including the old city wall. The "new" town has been built around the ruins and they are well preserved.

Then drove to Honiton and met up with previously unknown (2nd) Cousin (five times removed) Diana, with whom we had made contact via the internet with our genealogy research. Diana made us most welcome and after cup of tea and an inspection of her study with wall charts of the family tree, we headed off to her local pub for lunch. Thoroughly enjoyed our home style cooked roast lunch with yummy fresh vegetables. Thank You, Diana.

Adjourned back to Diana's house so Phil could check emails while Diana and I relaxed over a bottle of red wine. After much talking and laughing we left to return to Exeter. It was lovely to meet Diana and hope she will make the trip to visit us in Australia and meet the rest of the "rellies".

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Tuesday 3rd June

Leaving Exeter today our first stop was at Glastonbury, home of the famous Abbey where King Arthur is supposed to have been buried...twice. Moved his grave for some reason. The local market was in progress in the main street and the local craft and produce market in the village hall. Had to line up for the village hall to open. Once inside there was a fabulous array of cottage crafts and more interestingly to us home made food, cakes, biscuits, pies and quiches etc. Bought some of Hilda's home made sausage rolls and florentine biscuits.

From Glastonbury we moved on to Wookey Hole. Had no idea what was there but liked the name. We were very disappointed to find that it was a childrens amusement park.. To see the attraction of caves etc, we had to enter via the park. Didn't fancy going in with hordes of school buses etc, so just had our thermos cup of coffee in their carpark along with Hilda's baking. She's a good cook, wish we had bought more!

Not wanting to retrace our steps we drove through Ebbor Gorge National Park, (very wet but great views)and Cheddar Gorge to the village of Wells. What a great place that was. Beautiful buildings, magnificent cathedral and the Bishop's Palace. First palace we have seen with a real moat. Mostly a ruin but what is left is beautiful.

Next stop Shepton Mallet, (picked our route today by names that took our fancy) a boring place, most exciting place in town was the supermarket. Tried to get internet access at the library and after 120 seconds got chucked off. "Sorry", they said, "we are shutting for lunch now, come back in an hour".

Moved on then to Frome, a quite bustling village. managed to fluke the parking lot next to the library, (which doesn't shut for lunch) and got 20 mins free on the net.

From there we drove to Bath. Some one hadn't told "Maggie" that the road to Bath is blocked due to roadworks so ended up doing a few detours but eventually arrived. A few times round the block before we found the car park closest to the Travelodge and we booked in. (We are here for 3 nights).Had a brief walk round just to stretch our legs and acquaint ourselves with the local area again. Tomorrow will be a big walking day.

Today for the first time have had to bring out the polar fleece jacket. Temps most of the day hovered around 14.5C, however at 6pm it was up to 18.5C.

sprinkles of rain throughout the day, but about 30 miles north of Bath there has been torrential rain and flooding of many villages.

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Wednesday 4th June

Moved the car from a street parking bay around corner from hotel, and dumped it in a 24 hour car park before 8AM this morning. Parking restrictions only apply from 8am to 6pm. Our hotel, this time, is smack dab in the middle of the city and has no parking facilities. The "Grey Ghosts" are pretty "lively" as in most cities. Car parking in UK is "Pay and Display" and no matter how small a town is, you are always searching for 1 pound coins to feed a machine. Even towns with one street want money to park. Only difference to travelling in USA, is that you must stock up on dollar bills, to be able to pay a tip to anyone who helps or serves you every time you stop somewhere.

Spent the whole day wandering around Bath, and because we will be based here for 3 nights, managed to explore a little further than previously. The ancient history of Romans here, and the Roman Baths that were rediscovered and exposed again, is a most amazing structure. A most pleasant day with temp in around 21c.

Bath itself, is basically in a valley surrounded by lush greenery. They never developed upon open farmland which is also very near to the city. Large row housing estates/streets are adjacent to farms, so we can see cattle grazing on hillsides nearby from the Travelodge window.

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Thursday 5th June

On the road before 8 am this morning which was a not so great idea as we got caught up in peak hour traffic. Decided we would do a loop out from Bath and explore the small villages. Though neither of us were particularly interested in seeing Stonehenge it was on our route so stopped off there for our first coffee stop.

From there we drove through numerous small villages and detoured on to a one way country lane for several miles. Interseting scenery when we could see over the hedgrows. Some areas were crops and some grazing lands. Saw lots of sheep, some pheasants and other birds we think were partridges. A few squashed rabbits and foxes along the way. Most of the small places we passed through were not on our map. When we finally found a place that was, we discovered we had somehow turned south and were heading for Stonehenge again.

Turned Maggie on and were finally heading in the right direction. Drove through Marlborough and passed the Silbury Hill, a man made hill about 4000 years ago (so the sign said). Had a stopever in Calne with fish and chips for a late lunch. Decided we'd try and follow the canal back to Bath. At another small village, Semington, we saw the same canal boat we had seen yesterday at Bath negotiating the lock.

Arrived back in Bath after 5pm and had a frustrating time trying to find cold packaged beer. We couldn't.

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Friday 6th June

Left Bath before 8 am. Less traffic than yesterday so had no trouble getting on our way to Wales. Crossed the border on the Severn Bridge and had the privilege of paying 5 pound 30p for the experience.

Once in Wales we avoided the main cities and headed north. Our first stop was Abergavenny where we walked the town and found our way to the castle. Surprised to find it was free entry and also free to go to the museum. The museum wasn't opening until after we had left, but we enjoyed wandering among the ruins of the castle.

Inspected the local market and stopped by the library looking for internet access. Not only free but could have it for one hour. Usually we are restricted to 15 or 30 minutes.

From there we drove north to Builth Wells, not as big as we envisaged but a nice place for a stop along the way. Countryside very rural, most towns we went to were regional area for the local farmers. Big agricultural show grounds, though not being used at this time. Had a further stop in Rhayader before hitting the town of Ludlow. Staying just south of there in yet another Travelodge, this time, for 2 nights.

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Saturday 7th June

Had a sleep in this morning as we had nowhere to rush to. Once we headed out we visited Croft Castle in Hereford then went back across the border into Wales to Presteigne. Here we found the first sign we have seen directing us to a picnic area. Tried but couldn't find it. Finished up having our picnic in the car

parked at the side of the road.

We then drove on to Knightly where we saw King Offa's dyke. Not sure who King Offa was or where he was from but guess Wales somewhere. Will have to 'google' him.

Drove back into Hereford passing Roman ruins along the way. Back in Ludlow we walked around the town and were surprised to see it was a lot older than first appeared. Beautiful old pubs, mostly in good condition. Went to the market in the castle square and viewed the castle. A beautiful sunny day, lots of people sitting around the parkland adjacent to the castle.

After stocking up at the local supermarket made a bee line back to the motel.

PART 5

Sunday 8th June

Left Woofferton before 8am. Not hard to do when sunrise is around 4.30am and sunset 10pm. After lots of motorway travel decided to get off at Nottingham for a break. Nottingham is a large city, not that interesting. We decided while we were here, and after wandering around the city, to visit the Nottingham Castle. The castle building is beautifully preserved on the outside. The inside has been "modernised", all walls have been plastered and now used as an art gallery. A very small section is a museum and the most intersting feature there is a plaster cast of a death mask of Oliver Cromwell.

The gardens surrounding the castle are superb. Thought they had a feature garden of agapanthus but they turned out to be dutch alliums. Beautiful.

We had fluked a free parking spot beside the Royal Children Hotel and arrived back there just as lunch was available. Had a roast beef lunch and a pint of Fosters. Not the best roast we've ever had, but plenty of it and went down nicely.

From Nottingham we continued on through Lincoln and found an ASDA STORE which caused great excitement, stocked up on a few essentials. Then moved on to Scunthorpe, pretty awful, and then through a town with the terrific name of Spittal in the Street. Wish we had taken a photo of it.

Many power stations in this area which made the air yukky, thru belching smoke.

Eventually made our way into York around 5.30pm, found a free parking spot (being Sunday) opposite the Travelodge and settled in for the night.

From our window we can see the river and a lock through which canal boats pass. Tomorrow will explore the streets of York.

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Monday 9th June

York is a destination. Worth coming to England just to see this city.

If there are any streets left unwalked within the Roman city walls they must be very well hidden. I'm sure we have walked the lot, including the city walls which are accessed by steep steps and surround the original old section of York. The walls are two miles in length. Within the walls are numerous roman ruins, buildings from all ages learnt many years ago in school and largely ignored up to date.

Around the York Minster are many open areas, parkland, beautifully maintained though lacking in seats. had to find a big rock to sit on in the shade. ( Gee, I'm a whinger...)

Escaping from the heat we wandered along the River Ouse. Stopping under a tree in the shade we witnessed a couple of people stripping off and skinny dipping in the river. All very amusing until a few minutes later someone on the other side of the riverbank pointed out that the woman was floating face downward. A good samaritan on our side of the bank took off his shoes and dived in for the rescue. He took her to the other side of the river (which was closer) where she was hauled out. Many people on our side were phoning rescue services etc, but it took fifteen minutes before the paramedics arrived, them police, and nearly thirty minutes for the ambulance. She lay unmoving all the time on the pathway. No one took her pulse or attempted CPR so were convinced she was dead. However once the ambulance arrived and attended for many minutes she was put into a wheelchair and seemed to be moving her arms. A round of applause was heard from our side of the river. The guy who saved her life seemed to disappear during all this process.

Continuing on our walk we found lots of old relics just in among the parks. One area had a retaining wall made out of what would appear to be ruins of an old chapel which was nearby. Guess they have so much old stuff they have to do something with it.

Finally collapsed in the pub next door to our hotel with a pint of Fosters (only beer you can guarantee to be cold). It was so nice we had second one.

Our hotel is in a really good location here, just a short stroll to the centre of the city, and with the 26 quid a night deal, (plus 10 for parking at the council car park), we reckon we've done especially well with this one.

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Tuesday 10th June

Had Maggie take us on a drive today. Lots of smaller roads, not as small and as hilly as when down south, since its mainly flat country heading towards the moors. Lots of booses on the road too. First stop this morning was the town of Beverley. Checked out the Minster there, free entry but pay 2 pounds if you want to take a photo. We didn't pay but ttok photos anyway.

Next stop Hornsea, for a town on the shore of the North Sea it took us ages to find the sea. Had a cuppa while watching some guy hoon around on a jet ski. All boat launching there is done by tractor over the shingle beach.

Moved on to Bridlington. What a surprise that place was. A real seaside holiday destination for lots of people. Funfairs along the waterfront and lots of restaurants, mainly fish and chip shops. The majority of people seemed to be old age pensioners, all sitting in rows eating fish and chips. Dozens of them.

After a walk around town we decided its a good idea to remember the name of the street you park your hire car in. Makes its easier to find when you want to move on.

Drove north to Scarborough to visit the fair. Another huge seaside town. This one has the best sandy beach we have seen in England. Wide expanse of sand, lots of people taking advantage of the nice day. Donkey rides were available for children for the price of 2 pounds. (about $4) Again lots of fish and chip cafes and lots of people sitting wherever they could stuffing their faces with fish and chips. Had a drive around the town and finished up in the crematorium. The Anderson's know how to have a good day out.

Took a minor road on the way back to York and stopped in the village of Helmsley. Another surprise for the day. A really nice old village, huge castle ruins on the hill (think they must be compulsory), beautiful gardens and old churches.

Arrived back in York about 5.15pm. Had pre dinner drinkies in our room before hitting the pub next door for dinner. Grill night there on Tuesday nights so Phil had a mixed grill and I had chicken breast. Both meals under 7 pounds and included pint of Fosters.

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Wednesday 11th June

Left York and headed south east to King's Lynn. Drove mostly on motorways and all was smooth going until on a minor one we encountered traffic going to an ag-fest type day at a farm. Traffic was completely stoppd for a while and then crawled along until everyone turned off onto the local road to get to the event.

Arrived in King's Lynn around midday. Not much old stuff to see here. Went to the local market area which not being a market day today was used as a car park. However in the 1300's the square was used to whip and/or hang witches. They didn't say if they still do it these days.

Turned cold today so we were sitting in the car stuffing our faces with fish and chips (our turn today) when a parking inspector pointed out our ticket had expired. Told him we were just trying to find our way south and he turned into Mr Tourist Information. Was most impressed at meeting Australians in his home town. Had met one a week ago, but said I was the first Australian lady he had ever met. Provided us with a map and also hand drawn extra map to help us on our way.

Next stop was Ely, a town known for its cathedral and boy, its a biggie. Most impressive. Ely is also home to a house that belonged to Oliver Cromwell. As we had looked at his death mask we definitely had to look at his house. Ely is also one of the very few towns to have free parking. Had a two hour spot but only wanted it for one. What a waste.

Added up the parking tickets we hadn't already thrown away and we have spent over 26 pounds in meter fees. (Around $58 in 12 days)

Hit the big smoke, London tomorrow and hope we don't end up in the congestion zone.

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Thursday 12th June

Today was the last day of road tripping around England, and also happened to be one with threatening weather. We started out after 10 this morning and headed off towards London. Skies were very black and a biting cold wind. Our first stop was Newmarket, the racing capital of England. Huge stud farms and racing tracks surround the town. At one stage we had to stop and wait for about 30 race horses to cross the road. Traffic in all directions was stopped with traffic lights as the horses moved from a path on one side of the road to another. The town of Newmarket is pretty unremarkable but also houses the Lester Piggot museum and the Racing Industry museum.

Headed from there intent on making it to London. Maggie did a great job in guiding us through the maze of motorways and streets until she finally did an "illegal operation" and shut down. Panic stations for a few minutes until we restarted her and she got back on track. Would have had no way at all of finding the car hire return depot without her. After 1250 miles (they dont use Km's here)in the little 1.2L Vauxhall we made it unscathed. Moreover, the depot was right on the limits of the "London Congestion Zone", and any wrong turns there, would probably cause a hassle finding how to make a payment, or otherwise paying a heavy fine. Thanks again Maggie.

Dropped the car off and walked about two minutes to the nearest tube station, bought an "oyster' (travel) card and got on our way. London undergrouund is easy to navigate until you come across stairs and you have to haul suitcases up them. Still we managed and once out of the nearest station to our hotel it was only a short time until were booked in. The Travelodge here on City Road is new, and built within a facade of an old 8 story building. Openening a sliding aluminium window inside our room, gives access to double "colonial" style windows that open to the outside. Have a huge room with lovely? views of the roof of the building over the road, chimneys, etc. What should we expect for 26 quid?

Walked for a while until we found a Tesco's supermarket and stocked up some supplies. Very crowded streets and people overflowing from pubs having a pint in the street.

The heavy rain that was threatening skies never eventuated to rain, and the afternoon walk was quite pleasant.

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Friday 13th !!! June

SPOOKY DAY!!!

Wasn't really. Had to do some housekeeping and find a laundrette. A search on the internet found us one within 10 minutes walk. Packed up all our dirties and trudged off. Found it with no problem but were glad we went there early morning. Don't think it was a place you'd like to venture after dark although obviously plenty of people live in the area. Lots of council flats but all the stores in the strip (about 6 in total) all had metal shutters and bars and looked like they could survive a nuclear attack.

To do a load of washing cost 3 pounds and we spent another 80p on the drying before deciding we could then hang it in our room to finish off drying. The hotel is VERY hot as is all British buildings.

We then set off for a walking tour. Worked our way from the hotel down to the Thames and a riverside walk. Crossed the Thames river on the Jubilee bridge which deposited us next to the Tate Modern Art Gallery. All museums and galleries here are free (due to Lottery money) and you only pay for special exhibits within them. Good thing we hadn't had to pay for the Tate Modern or we'd have asked for our money back. what a load of rubbish! Makes me feel bad I threw out all the kids scribblings. Could have made a fortune selling them.

Continuing along the Thames walk we found the Borough Market, only open Fridays. And FULL of people. Some fruit and veg, cheeses, meats, breads, etc. but also lots of hot food vendors. The queues for hot food seemed never ending. We eventually bought a venison hamburger which was yummy.

Our walk took us over the Tower Bridge and around the Tower of London. Having been there before we didn't go inside but it would have been very crowded by the volume of people around.

The rest of the afternoon was taken with just wandering through the streets marvelling at the buildings.

Staggered back to the hotel to find tourist bus passengers (about 50 of them ) trying to book in and use the lifts. Chaos.

Nice to get back to our room put our feet up and have a beer even if it was warm.

Will be saving all our photos, uploads and stuff again just after typing this, but tomorrow night, (Sat) we catch up with brother John and SIL Denise, who we worked with to book into the same hotel a month or so ago. They have just been on a Russian river Cruise, and are spending a few days in London before flying back to OZ. We hope to be able to have dinner together, since we leave Sunday morning to join North Cape Norway/Arctic Circle on Marco Polo.

Saturday 14th June

Set off on our walk around 9am. Very quiet streets in our part of town early on a Saturday morning. One of the few people we saw actually stopped US and asked for directions. Amazingly we knew where he wanted to go so sent him on his way a happy chappy.

First stop today was the Portobello Road market in Notting Hill. A long street full of market stalls from silver trays etc, to clothes. to food to pure junk. Crowded going down the street but even more so as we battled though the increasing crowd to get back to the underground station. Then went for a walk in Regent's Park. Huge acres of parklands, big lake area complete with many ducks and swans. Part of the park is called Queen Mary Gardens, with acres of beautiful rose bushes all in bloom and flower gardens. Amazing to watch a guy taking movies of his wife and daughter among the flower gardens. Not so amazing I suppose, but she was in a full Burka outfit, and made us wonder how anyone would recognise the resulting images. While there we were also treated to an air display of jets, helicopters, and jet fighters flying overhead. Thought a war must have broken out until we realised it was the flyover for the Queens birthday. Today was the trooping of the guard for Lizzie's birthday, we had decided to miss it because of the crowds.

Headed along Tottenham Court Road where Phil checked out all the electronic stores looking for a new computer battery. When we finally found a store that stocked one he decided it was too expensive anyway. Across the road from the Scientology Headquarters was a huge demonstration against them. Over a hundred people chanting and yelling, VERY loud music and screeching noises being blasted towards their doorway. Signs inviting motorists to honk their horn if they agreed scientology is a cult. Loud cheers when passing drivers did so. This was watched over by some very bored looking police.

To date have only used the underground for travel around London. With an Oyster card its very easy and much cheaper than buying ordinary tickets.

Dinner at the pub tonight which is just a short walk from the hotel. Back at the hotel we caught up with John (Phil's brother) and s.i.l. Denise who had tonight flown in from Norway and are spending a few days in London.

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PART 6

Sunday 15th June

Met John and Denise at 9am. in the coffee lounge downstairs in the hotel for a cuppa before heading off on our adventure to Norway. Dragged the suitcases down to Moorgate underground station and hopped the train to Victoria station. From there less than 10 minutes walk to the bus station to board the transfer coach to Tilbury about 1 and half hours away. Our luggage was put on the bus and we didn't see it again until it was outside our cabin door. Embarkation was very quick, particularly as we had no documents apart from our receipt for payment. Met the Transocean representative we had been in contact with via email at the meet and greet counter and she had sorted everything out for us. Then it was simply a matter of walking on board.

Our cabin is next door to the one we had last year on the Marco Polo. Convenient to everything. We would be amongst the youngest passengers on board. Looking around at various times it looks like God's waiting room.

As usual, once all passengers are aboard and before the ship sails we had the mandatory evacuation drill. However this time instead of just meeting at the muster area wearing our life jackets they got a bit more serious. We had to file out of the area in an orderly fashion, one hand on the persons shoulder in front to the lifeboat area where men had to go to the back and women line up in front. Good to see chivalry hasn't died. Although the lady next to me said it was so the sharks could get their fill before the men jump in. At least now I know where to elbow my way to get the best seat in the lifeboat. (That's assuming we can get past the jumble of walking sticks on the stairway)

The Marco Polo is essentially the same except the decks and restaurants and bars have been renamed. The casino has been removed and a new lounge added in its place. Most drastic change is that there is NO HAPPY HOUR!! And no buckets (of beer). Prices for drinks are over the top as usual. Good thing we have a supply of our own. Had to go and get our own ice from the bar as its no longer supplied automatically in the cabins which caused a few looks.

Lunch meal ordinary but adequate. Dinner meal very good.

Tonights show was songs and dances from around the world. Very well done. Finished the night in the upstairs bar listening to a trio singing various songs. Very good also though sometimes seemed like the old community singing session with lots of the oldies joining in.

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Monday 16th June

Clocks forward one hour today which is a day at sea. Breakfast in the dining room is mainly buffet unless you want fresh cooked eggs or hot cereal. After breakfast decided we'd take a walk around the deck. There's a lot of me to blow away but I nearly did. The wind at the front of the boat was so strong I had trouble walking across the deck and there was no way I was getting too close to the rails. Very cold wind also. Spent most of the morning inside the Palm lounge chatting to some Poms. The majority of passengers are Poms though have now met one other Australian couple and one couple from South Africa.

A lot of the passengers ignore the hand sterilisers which are outside the restaurants. Phil complained to the maitre'd that they were not enforcing their use and I had already complained to the reception desk that some were empty and had been since last night. Were pleased to see when we left the restaurant after a very nice lunch that a waiter had been designated to stand by the steriliser at the door and ask people to use it as they entered.

Our cabin steward(ess) approached us today and asked what time we would like ice delivered! Obvious that a few notes were taken after us going to the bars to get ice yesterday!!! Most staff are from Eastern Europe, and understanding of English is not very good. Also obviously hard for them if they learnt English at school, because they also have the second problem of decifering from all the different accents, terminology, and slang words used in English.

Tonight was formal dress and the Captains reception. Put on our best clothes (not dinner suit and cocktail dress like some) and made sure we got there early. Unfortunately, lots of others got there earlier and were already guzzling the champagne by the time we had shaken the captains hand. Not that we wanted to but we couldn't get past him to the bar until we had. Still, we managed 2 and half glasses each by waving our empty glasses at the waiter every time he tried to get past. Missed out on the canapes but not worried about them.

The captain introduced the main staff members then raised a toast to everyone's health and that was that. No rambling like the captain from last year.

Then off to dinner followed by musical entertainment in the upstairs bar once again.

Some rain this evening. Its turned very cold so time to bring out the polar fleece and beanies as we will hopefully be up at 5am tomorrow for or first sighting of the fiords area.

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Tuesday 17th June

Our first sighting of Norway was just after 5a.m. as predicted. Once the ship entered the Hardanger fiord the going was extrememly smooth. We joined many others on the front deck to be treated to the sight of the mountains rising from the sea on each side of the ship. Most were covered in deep green foilage with some bare rocky areas. a few areas of farmalns dotted about with some buildings high on the slopes while others hugged the shoreline. Many waterfalls and some patchy snow on the mountain tops.

We landed in Ulvik around 8am and were shortly on our way by tender to join the coach for our excursion to Eidjford. The coach drove along the shoreline until we crossed the fiord by ferry and then drove through Eidjford to a national park centre where we watched a film of the area and walked amongst stuffed animals. Introduced Kenny to a few of the locals. (Kelly stayed in London). Fascinating. Then on to a large dam which provides water for hydro electricity and to a hotel near waterfalls for tea or coffee. Back in Eidford we rejoined the ship which had sailed from Ulvik and was waiting at the port. After a very late lunch we wandered the town of Eidjford which didn't take long. Its a very pretty area with a rushing stream contributing to the fiord and the mountains in the background. One interesting thing is that a lot of buildings have grass growing on the roof (for insulation), when it gets long they put goats up to keep the grass cropped. Looks very amusing.

We arrived back to the ship once again to find the ships sirens sounding. It was fire drill for the crew nothing to panic about.

Prices in Norway that we have seen so far are extremely expensive. Petrol works out to be $2.90 a litre.

Overcast day with sunny periods, the wind was quite cold so the beanies and polar fleece did their first duty today. I'm sure it won't be the last, whilst we are in this neck of the woods.

After dinner listened to a piano /violin duo in one of the lounges. Lots of other things about to start around ship after that, but we were pretty well stuffed after the early start today, so opted for bed before 10.

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Wednesday 18th June

Entered the Nordjford in the early hours and sailed until about midday. Stunningly beautiful cruising on glass like water, with snow capped mountains and rocky cliffs dropping directly into the water interspersed with small villages and farms along the way. The villages placed wherever a few acres of even slightly flat land can be found. After a beautiful, but chilly morning we reached the town of Olden. A very small town at the end of the fiord. We opted, instead of an excursion, to just walk around town. Didn't take very long. A very pretty and neat town built in the valley, houses with lovely gardens. Wildflowers of blue, yellow and white along the road and hillsides. Saw the first farm livestock we have seen, cows. Farms are quite small by our standards usually on steep slopes in small patches amongst the forests and rocky outcrops. Very little traffic, mainly the tour buses from ourship and also another which arrived shortly after us.

Unable to check out the local church which looked quite interesting as a funeral was in progress. Did check out the local supermarket and the only price I can remember is canned peas..worked out nearly $5 Australian. Norway supposedly has no great problem with drink driving as not too many people would be able to afford alcohol. 0.02 tolerence here, over that loss of licence for two years.

It rained a little in the morning but after our walk we relaxed with a cuppa on the back deck of the Marco Polo in the sunshine. No wind so it was really pleasant.

This trip could be called the Liver Cleansing Cruise. Beer and wine on the ship is so expensive we notice very few people are buying it. (Could also have something to do with the age of the passengers ) We mainly stick to our cabin supply .

Tonights entertainment was "Mamma Mia" sung in broken english by the mainly eastern european cast. Quite good though.

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Thursday 19th June

Today was an at-sea day. BORING! Not much to do apart from eat and wait until the next meal then eat again. Managed a couple of walks around the deck, almost getting blown away each time. Icy wind, but not too bad if you could find a sheltered spot. The polar fleeces are getting a work out.

Spent the morning doing the puzzle sheet provided each day, then borrowed a library book. Read that while Phil had his Grandpa nap this arvo. Then it was time to stuff in afternoon tea while we waited for the dinner hour.

Scenery today was water everywhere we looked. No whales or signs of any marine life though someone supposedly saw a whale last night.

At 10.15p.m we crossed the Arctic Circle. We were outside on the deck at the time with overcast sky but still very light and very cold. Although a relative head wind of 80km/hr, seas are slight, so, thankfully, no rockin and a rollin. The sun will remain above the horizon from now onwards, during our trip to North Cape where we are due in 2 days time.

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Friday 20th June

This morning very mild temperature and no wind. Our first scheduled landing was at Gravdal which was really only a stopping of point to drop people who were going on excursions. We made it to land anyway. From the pier it was 4 kms in one direction to one town and 2.5km in the other direction to the another. We wanted to check emails so by the time we waited for our appointed time (email centre had only one computer) it was almost time to go back to the ship. Managed a walk to the end of the nearby jetty and took photos for other passengers wearing their t-shirts in the Arctic circle. Everyone was surprised that the weather is so mild. The water at the pier was crystal clear so while Phil was computering I watched little fishies, jelly fish and bright pink sea urchins. AND a large crayfish/lobster walk across the rocks under the water. The water was clear and very still in the fiord, the mountains surrounding the towns had some snow caps and patches. All very pretty and looked too good to be "real".

After lunch the ship left to head to Svolvaer not too many miles away. We were due to have much more time there and was looking forward to a good walk on solid land. However, the wind came up and it was deemed too dangerous to launch the tenders and shuttle passengers back and forth to the dock. People who had done the overland from trip Gravdal to Svolvaer were to be picked up once the wind had dropped. Tenders were finally launched around 5pm to collect them.

Still waiting to see whales but, big excitement, saw some seagulls today.

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PART 7

Saturday 21st June

Quiet morning on board ship as we sailed to Hammerfest. When we arrived it was pouring rain but once it eased a bit we went ashore for a walk around town. Not a great deal to see, small town, big cemetery. An oil refinery on an island just across from the town. Could have bought reindeer salami for 15 euros a stick, but no free samples to try and we are not supposed to bring any food stuff back on board anyway.

From there it was about another four hours sailing to the highlight of the trip, a visit to Honninsvaeg and the NORTH CAPE, the most northern part of Norway that you can get to. (Most northerly is actually one km away but not accessable). Three other cruise ships were in port and buses were everywhere to pick us all up for the 35 minute drive to the Cape. Once there we were amazed at actually how many people were there. Would say a minimum of 50 buses, many, many campervans and cars. The centre was very crowded, but the views spectacular.

Sadly, Phil killed Kenny! Poor Kenny Koala went over the edge of the cliff fence and could not be retrieved. We'll probably get charged with littering.

Kennys last living, and his last dead photo will be seen in our Norway North Cape set.

The drive to and from the centre was amazing. A narrow road over the top of the plateau which was covered in sepia coloured grasses, lots of rocks and ice patches. Many small lakes formed by the melting snow. Saw a couple of reindeer on the way grazing by the side of the road. We have 24 hour sunshine and its quite eerie for it to be so bright at midnight. The sun was slightly obscured by clouds but the weather mild with little wind so it was really pleasant walking around.

Returning to the ship around 1.30 a.m. we decided to have a quiet red wine before going to bed. However, a party was in progress on the pool deck so of course we joined in. Its the first time this cruise has had entertainment on the back deck. No doubt the good weather had something to do with it. The band was playing, people singing and dancing. As the largest of the three other cruise ships sailed away, our cruise director organised all the Brits to sing "Rule Brittania" at the top of their voices as we all waved and yahooed at the passengers on the other ship.

It was good to see many of the ships crew join in the festivities with the passengers. We finally staggered off to bed around 3a.m.

Looks like we will also now have to retrieve Kelly, so as to make use of Kennys ticket for the rest of this cruise.

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Sunday 22nd June

Today we visited Tromso the biggest town in nothern Norway, population around 60,000. After weaving south amongst the hundreds of beautiful islands overnight, and this morning,(all in daylight), we stopped off for 5 hours. Didn't see many of the 60,000, as being Sunday most shops were shut and the streets very quiet. We used the shuttle bus to get into town (about 10 minutes ride from the cruise ship dock) which took us via the coast road to the centre of the town. Walked around admiring the buildings and spring flower gardens and tubs along the way. One of the shops had diplayed in their window, a hand knitted bikini with matching beanie. Can't imagine the water ever being warm enough to swim in, but I guess if you brave the cold you would need a a beanie to keep your head warm :O)

The town is built around the harbour which has many fishing vessels and pleasure craft lining the shore. The buildings reminded us of the the Cannery row area in Monterey, California.

Returning to the ship the bus entered a tunnel near the centre of town. To our surprise the "tunnel" turned out to be the entrance to an underground network of roads. Went for a few kilometres and had roundabouts and intersecting roads, quite busy and explained why the town streets were so quiet. The traffic was all underground in this amazing labyrinth. We eventually resurfaced close to the cruise ship terminal. one can only imagine what tolls we would be paying for infrastructure like that! That is Norways rich oil dollars at work.

Took in a show again tonight, (as we have most nights) and then returned to the back top lounge for more "cocktails" and to listen to a band for a while. A midnight walk around the deck tonight probably saw our last experience of 24 hour daylight, before hitting the sack, as we sailed towards Svartisen Glacier.

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Monday 23rd June

A quiet day at sea today. Spent the morning gazing at the scenery with a break to play bingo before lunch. Didn't win as usual.

After lunch it was rug up time to go on deck to see the Svartisen glacier. Not a big as the glaciers we have seen in Alaska but interesting anyway. The ice

did not reach the sea and is apparently shrinking each year. The day was quite cloudy with bursts of sunshine. A few spots of rain while we were on the front deck and it turned into drizzle shortly after we left the glacier area.

Later in the afternoon we left the Arctic Circle and will see our last midnight sun tonight if we can stay up that late.

Tonights showroom show was by Jimmy Nairn a Scottish has-been who should have retired gracefully. For an 'old bloke' the best thing we could say about him was that he had a lot of energy. The worst show we have seen on the ship. The Russian troupe in the showroom, have been fantastic every night we have seen them. There are about 14 proffesionally trained, rehearsed, singer/dancers who perform a different show in that lounge almost every night, plus a Russian violinist, two pianists and a sax/wind instrument player who mainly perform during days and nights in smaller lounges.

Tonights late night entertainment for us was in the Palm Garden area with the two of the Russian girls (plus a few reds) one playing piano and the other the violin. All classical numbers and very well received by their audience.

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Tuesday 24th June

Today in Alesund, biggest Norwegian town we have been in so far. Alesund is spread over 7 islands connected by bridges or underwater tunnels. We stayed on the main two and just walked around. Found our way to a huge park and got to the first level before finding out there were another 450 steps to the top. Decided to give it a miss and check out the town instead. Lots of the buildings are art deco style. Very ornate and some very colourful. Saw the first McDonalds we have seen in Norway. Also the first two buskers, both playing the piano accordian.

Alesund has many little harbours and a canal with lots of sail and power boats in the centre of the town.

Found a pleasant street on the opposite side of the island to where the ship was docked and after a walk along there had to climb another hill to get back to the ship. Many rock steps and gravel pathway before we reached the top and were glad it was all down hill to the ship from there.

It had been very cold, windy and rainy when we left the ship rugged up in many layers of clothes complete with beanies, gloves and umbrellas. Naturally once we were away from the ship the sun came out, the wind dropped, and there was no more rain. The one shopping centre (an enclosed 3 floor mall), we ventured into was so hot Sue had to leave immediately.

Caught the show tonight from the Russian troupe, tonights theme, "swing" Another fantastic performance from this team, once again with lots of glitz and costume changes. Its a privelige to get to be in such a small venue with them performing for just a couple of hundred people each show. Finished off the night with a beer whilst listening to Kate Sharman and her trio in the old Charleston Lounge.

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Wednesday 25th June

Woke up this morning and the ship was already berthed in Bergen. Bergen is a city, by far larger than Alesund. Very neat and tidy. It was a leisurely 10 minute stroll into the centre of town. All recommendations via tourist books and email sites say the water front fish market is a must to see. We were disappointed to see the market is simply a few stalls among the usual souvenir and t-shirt sellers.

Lots of fish available though. Mainly smoked salmon, caviar and smoked whale meat. Tried the salmon and whale, both nice. Don't see why the Japanese get picked on for slaughtering whales when the Norwegians obviously do too. Whale meat is not cheap, 360Kroner a kilo which is roughly $70. Also tasted moose salami, not bad but wouldn't buy any.

After the market we walked through main part of town, past the museums, fountains and stores and churches. Thought we would take the funicular to the top of the mountain but decided to give it a miss when we saw the 2 blocks long queue. Explored some interesting narrow cobblestoned laneways between houses.

The day was the warmest we have had on this trip. In the afternoon we sat on the pool deck and enjoyed the sun. Sun umbrellas were out for the first time this cruise though in short supply. Once we had our table with umbrella we didn't move. Sat in comfort with a cold beer and watched the seaplanes taking off and landing.

Set sail around 6pm to head back to England. Around 11.30pm an 86 year old passenger was evacuated by helicopter back to Norway for urgent medical attention.

We were told that the sea could be rough tonight and were not unduly worried until we saw that both the chairs and tables on the pool deck were lashed together and tied to the railing. First time that has been done on this cruise.

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Thursday 26th June

Slept well last night, no rough seas to worry us, thank goodness.

Last day of our Norway holiday spent at sea. After not doing much at all, finally got around to packing our cases. Transocean is to store one case for us, and deliver it back to the ship in 3 weeks when we do the next cruise. (nice customer service eh!) So we had the big decision of what to take and what to store.

It was Gala night in the dining room, or as we call it Galah night. There was the inevitable Bomb Alaska parade where the evenings dessert was paraded around the dining room and the chefs came out to take a bow. Our waiter and helper tried to shame us into giving them an extra tip by presenting those at our table with a set of menus from the cruise. (Gratuities were included in the fare for this cruise) (Last year on this ship, gratuities were not included, so our extras to do the right thing on last night was AUD$420.00). Didn't work. service was okay this time, but not exceptional. We did tip the cabin stewardess who kept us stocked with ice.

After another brilliant and quite spectacular show in the showroom and a couple of reds we finally went to bed after midnight. We were pleased to find out that the same Russian guys and girls will be performing on board when we return.

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Friday 27th June

Up early this morning as we had to vacate our cabin by 8am so it could be readied for the next cruise.

After breakfast we went up to the pool deck for a coffee while waiting for our luggage to be taken off the ship and coaches to be ready to transport us back to Victoria coach station. Everyone had to collect their luggage and take it personally through customs. Customs?? No sign of them, just walked out of the building. We then had to meet the Transocean rep to hand over the case they are storing for us. No problems and we were soon on our way. Left Tilbury at 9.30a.m. and arrived at Victoria around 11.30a.m.

A few minutes walk got us the to Victoria underground staion where we immediatley got on the wrong train. No drama, just had to change trains at the next station. Then the train we got on terminated another three stations on (no idea why) so everyone had to get off and change platforms, up and down the stairs of course, then we finally got to our destination Great Portland Street station and a short walk to the Holiday Inn. Good position, close to station, shops, laundry etc. We need to launder some stuff before we fly out to Dublin Ireland on Monday arvo, and now that we have to pay for food again, we will be back to mainly using what we have stored as body fat, (at least, until next cruise starts).

Just a big walk around this arvo/evening, and bought a few Fosters and a cask to hopefully last the next 3 days. Lots of people around, (more than normal) 'cos of Wimbledon and the Mandella concert & birthday thingy.

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PART 8

Saturday 28th June

Started our walk this morning by heading from the Holiday Inn, through Regents Park, past the London Zoo to the Regent Canal. Had seen the canal on the map and didn't know what it was all about so we decided to go see. The London canals go for miles, the section we were on goes from Camden Lock to Little Venice. A nice walk along the towpath, through a part of the zoo which spans both sides of the canal. Many canal boats moored in different sections. Some very well kept, some make it look like trailer trash on water. Once we reached Little Venice we just kept walking in the general direction of Hyde Park.

Came across a street market and wandered in for a look. Turned out it was the Muslim area, not too many of us whities there. Lots of Muslim ladies clothing available for sale but no full burkas selling, although many shoppers were wearing them. Maybe they gotta get husbands to buy and fit them. Could have done with one today as it was a London heatwave...23C. Amused us to see "Passport Photo Booth" in that market strip. Maybe they just photo-copy same photo for those poor ladies.

After a cuppa and a deli roll at McDonalds our next stop was Marble Arch. Then we continued across the road to Hyde Park. Last night was Nelson Mandela's 90th birthday concert there, today hordes of people were streaming into the park for an Eric Clapton concert. Lots of scalpers offered us tickets but we didn't bother to ask the price. Tomorrows concert is The Police. While sitting for a few minutes rest we were approached by a couple and asked for directions. They were from Glen Iris. A few minutes later a guy alone asked if we would take his photo, another Aussie.

From the park we walked along Piccadilly Road until the Circus. Then branched off towards Covent Garden trying to check out the next hotel where we are staying.

Found it by good luck. From there we headed back to the Holiday Inn via Tesco's to grab a cold affordable beer.

Back in our room after 7 and a half hours walking our first priority was to strip off shoes and socks and crack the cold beer. Second priority was to have another cold beer.

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Sunday 29th June

Walked around the Marylebone area this morning. Followed signs to to a "farmers market" and have now decided going by the prices they were charging that British farmers must be rich. No bargains there like you expect at a farmers market at home. Still, we got to sample cheese and raspberries and strawberries plus some apple juice. Almost a free breakfast, should have done the rounds a second time. Another hours walking and exploring interesting little mews and it was time for us to head back to the hotel to pack and head to the next hotel at Covent Garden.

A brief stop at a coin laundrette and we are all packed and ready to hit Ireland tomorrow.

Hotel we are in now is on the underground line to Heathrow.

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Monday 30th June

Wandered from our hotel down to Covent Garden this morning. Not much happening there as it was early but an antiques market was setting up for the day. Kept moving and found ourselves on the Strand near Waterloo bridge, and as always, had to see what was on the other side of the river. It was just near the London Eye and a footbridge back over the Thames gave us great views of the Eye, Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. Returned to our hotel via Burger King for a free breakfast. Had scrounged some coupons from the free newspaper we found on an underground train.

Back at our hotel we grabbed our luggage and headed off to Heathrow. A five minute walk to the underground and onto the train and we were at Heathrow 50 minutes later. Easy Peasy. Booked in with BMI for flight to Dublin and were then told it was a 30 minute walk to the gate. Had plenty of time so no panic.

Heathrow's new security level is that you are photographed and boarding pass scanned as you go through first security check. Then at a further security barrier the boarding pass is scanned again to make sure you and the pass 'match'.

Entering Dublin we met the surliest immigration official we have met this trip. After asking how long we would be in Ireland and why, he stamped our passports and has given us 20 days in Ireland. Don't know what happened to the 30 day visa waiver. No Customs check, just walked through.

Got the bus into the main bus station and a helpful lady gave us directions to the street we were looking for. Found Talbot Street without too much difficulty. We were on the even numbered side of the street, across the road were the even numbers too. Confused us. Number of the hotel is 93-98 so of course it turned out to be on the even side.

Our Days Inn room is the size of a large shoe box. Have to move the suitcase depending on whether we want to open the main door or the door to the bathroom which opens into the bedroom. Only other place to put the case is on the bed and that doesn't work if we want to be in bed. Other than that the room is okay, lovely view from the window of a roof and skylights on the next building. Position is fabulous though. Two minute walk to O'Connell street, main street in Dublin.

After a trip to the supermarket (Tescos) opposite the hotel have decided we won't complain about the prices in London again. As with accommodation, food is much more expensive than England. Thought we'd buy a wine cask but at 25Euros ($41.25) a 3 litre cask decided not to bother.

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Tuesday 1st July

A slow start this morning. Hit the road around 10 a.m. and after exploring the local streets around the hotel headed off along O'Connell Street and over the Liffey River into the heart of Dublin city.

Drizzly rain, so we set out with rain coats. As always when we use them it stopped raining.

After a pause at Molly Malone's statue we continued up Grafton Street, the main shopping mall in Dublin. At the top of the mall at the Fusiliers Arch the rain started again so we detoured from our original planned route and ducked into the National Museum. Spent a considerable amount of time there, most interesting exhibition was the peat bog man (PBM). Since I last saw him in 1999 with s.i.l. Val he has been moved into his own room. Well, not quite his own as two more PBM (not to be confused with pussy bum mouth) have been found and are now on display.

One of the displays on ancient ruins in Ireland was a 20 minute film. Couldn't believe how engrossed Phil was with it until I realised he was asleep. A sharp poke in the ribs sorted him out. At least he wasn't snoring.

From the museum we continued our walking following the walking tours guide and visited the Oscar Wilde statue in Merrion Square. A popular spot with young American girls climbing all over Oscar. Don't think he would have approved.

Next stop was St Stephen's Green, a beautiful oasis amongst the hustle and bustle of the city. Lovely gardens and a huge pond complete with ducks.

More walking and we passed Blooms Hotel where Val and I stayed in '99. From there a walk through Temple Bar area which now has a distinct smell of incense.

Wasn't like that in the old days!!

Temple Bar has many expensive 'local' pubs, lots with live Irish music, all you need is lots of money to go in.

Back across the Liffey and into a more local shopping area we found a LIDL (similiar to Aldi) supermarket and stocked up on a few necessary supplies. What we couldn't get there we got from a Tesco store across the road. Then we discovered an Aldi store, so will have to check their prices tomorrow.

At LIDL we weakened and bought a cuppla cheap bottles of red (cheapest we've seen) (4.99 euros = ~ $8.40) from Chile. Having one now, Nice drop! Might have the other :)

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Wednesday 2nd July

Another day, another walk. Finished the walking tour guide with walks to the Cathedrals and Dublin Castle. Drizzled rain on and off all day. After lunch back in our hotel room we set out for a 'local' walk. Soon discovered that once away from the bustle of the O'Connell Street area the tone of the place deteriorates somewhat. Several streets had the local derros laying about and were quite dirty. (Both the derros and the streets).

the street market we wandered through yesterday was still operating. Fish is displayed on trays, no refrigeration and no ice to cool it. Fish smelt stronger today than yesterday. Don't want to smell it tomorrow.

Checked out the Aldi store on our way back to hotel. Same brands of foods that we have in Australia. No wine bargains there. Looking forward to seeing Tesco in Belfast and getting English prices again.

We are not the only ones complaining of high food prices. TV news featured a story of a bus company that is running shopping trips into Northern Ireland (2 hours away) to the supermarkets there, as food is England prices and much cheaper.

I reckon that Dublin won't be on a wish list for return visits, except when we finish our Ireland circumnavigation and fly out from here. I am not over impressed, but Sue was happy to rekindle some memories of her visit with Val a few years ago. The city of Dublin, to me, is boring and drab. Could not find anything apart from the Museum to ignight a real interest. Not many places make me feel that way. However, since we like exploring around country roads/towns, and finding villages etc. we're looking forward to getting into the countryside after we collect our Hertz "wheels" in the morning.

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Thursday 3rd July.

Set out in drizzly rain for our two mile trek to Hertz car rental to collect our car. Expected the rain to ease. It didn't. It was soon bucketing down.

Discovered that my raincoat isn't waterproof and was getting quite wet when a car went through a puddle while we were waiting at traffic lights and completely soaked the front of us. Sue could only have been wetter if she'd laid face down in the puddle. My coat, at least didnt leak, but why O why O why did we not bring our brollys. Left them at the hotel didn't we!!! They would have helped a bit.

Collected the car, a Toyota Yaris, and joined the peak hour traffic back to our hotel to change into dry clothes, re-pack our luggage and check out.

Headed off to Belfast with it still raining. Decided to drive via coastal villages but soon gave that idea a miss as the rain kept pelting down. Arrived in Belfast without too much fuss, only once around the block before we found the Days Hotel. "Maggie" (Gps) got it right, but it was a one way street, and we drove straight past the hotel first time.

Once booked in to the hotel and after hanging our wet Dublin clothes up to dry, the rain stopped and the sun came out to cheer us up as we set off for walk.

Couldn't find a supermarket or liquor store.

Phil had a miserable night. No computer access and no beer or wine, he had to settle for an early night watching tele. I had a book so I was happy. Would have been happier if it was a GOOD book.

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Friday 4th July

Woke to a beaut. sunny day and set off for the BIG walk around Belfast. Firstly headed to St. George's market which was a mixture of food and clothing stalls. While Phil was filming, I investigated the cheese stall and to my delight sampled whatever they had available. Some very strange cheeses that I've never seen or heard of before. From the market we headed to the River Lagan and the riverside walk to get great views of the city. Then into the city area, checking out all the streets and laneways.

Noted that things are a bit behind times in public transport (buses), but at least the system works. Lots of buses, and people queue nicely to board. Seems to take ages to load buses in peak hour, since everyone has to show a day ticket or pay the driver when getting on. At each stop, this means bus stays for several minutes, but we bet that Belfast dont get the rampant fare evaders we do.

Belfast has some impressive buildings, one is the City Hall, next to which has been placed a huge ferris wheel (like the Eye in London), looks revolting next

to such an old building. Wanted to go to the Ulster Museum but its closed for restoration. The city is different from our pre-conceptions. We were expecting dull, drab, and evidence of all the troubled times they have had, but no, everything is quite intact, and lots of new development taking place to neglected areas. They are doing lots of work around the "Docklands" much the same as Melbourne finally started on a few years ago.

Called into tourist info centre for computer access to check mail..... Only 20 junk mails plus subscription emails in the last 48 hours, so that was good, but no-one had written to us.

Finally found a Tesco's supermarket. It is housed in a heritage building, only flags outside advertise its presence. Inside the building is enormous complete with a huge domed ceiling which is very elaborately painted. Stocked up on the important things in life, wine and a bread stick.

We are having trouble with the accents and /or the Gaellic that people appear be speaking here in Ireland. Whatever it is, at times we are totally baffled as to what people are saying to us. It was easier understanding the Eastern Europeans on the ship. -- Whats that? Keh?

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Saturday 5th July

A very wet start to the day. Once again absolutely teemimg with rain. Finally decided it wasn't going to stop so we'd go out anyway. That idea came to a sudden halt when the car wouldn't start. Back to hotel room to call for assistance. The guy who came to start the car informed Phil that our hotel carpark (its a very big car-park), is the scene for a huge bonfire on the 11th July. We had noticed the huge pile of wooden pallets and assumed they were awaiting collection. Not so, on the 11th July huge bonfires will be lit around the area as memorials for the 'cause'. Glad we won't be here while all this goes on.

Apparently Councils and most people don't like it, but turn a blind eye to building of the fires. By the number of pallets already piled up into a cone shape, (probably about 3 floors high so far). I also noted Chep were having an audit problem with their worldwide pallet business a few years ago, because they could not account for most of what they had put out on hire. Maybe here is part of the answer??

On the corner of our street the mural on an entire side of a block of units announces "you are entering Sandy Row" and is illustrated with a gunman wearing a balaclava and holding a rifle.

July 12th is the "Orange festival" with street parades etc. Noticed in the tourist book that the hotel gave us, many attractions are shut on the 12/13th July. One can only wonder why.

Finally got the car sorted out just before midday and we set out on a drive.

Drove around some of the wealthy suburbs of Belfast near the Botanical Gardens (raining too hard to go in) and through several suburbs. Decided to have lunch in a pub near the university. Very nice.

Finally stopped raining so we continued our drive and ventured into the Falls Road area. Lots of wall murals and memorials to those who were killed in the area. More stacks of wood for the upcoming bonfire night on corners in this area.

PART 9

Sunday 6th July

Rained all night but was clearing when we left Belfast just after 8am. Stopped for a quick look at Carrickfergus Castle on our way north. Castle was shut as was everything else as we were so early.

Drove along the coastal road through many little villages, most which were very big on flying the English flag on the majority of their buildings and street poles, and open farmland until we reached the Giants Causeway on the north coast of Ireland. Free to enter the area but 5 pounds to park the car. About a 10 minute walk down the cliff road to the geological area that is the Giants Causeway. Lots of rock formations, lots of people climbing on them. Sea was very calm so it didn't look like the publicity pics I have seen with wild waves crashing over the rocks.

Back in the car we headed straight for Londonderry.

Arrived around 1.30p.m. and after settling into the Ramada Hotel took off for a look at the town. Londonderry is a walled city, though of course, it has long since spread outside the city walls. Walked around the top of the wall which is very wide and well maintained apart from some graffiti on the information boards. From the top of the wall we could see into the Bogside area with murals of the 'Troubles' on many walls. Also evident was the piles of wood (and pallets again) waiting for the bonfires on the 11th.

Quite an interesting city. Would have liked to have bought a book about the "Troubles" in Londonderry but being Northern Ireland most shops were shut. Hope to pick one up somewhere along the way. (or Maybe the library when back home in Kew)

We had managed to find a parking spot, FREE!!, in the centre of town right opposite a Wetherspoons pub, so Phil had the Sunday roast and a pint of Fosters, and I had my first genuine Irish Stew accompanied with a pint of Guiness. Yumbo!

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Monday 7th July

A lo-ooo-ong drive today from Londonderry (Derry) to Limerick. As usual left early, around 8.30 a.m expected to get caught up in Londonderry's peak hour traffic but they don't have any. We intendend today to now hit a West Ireland Coastal Drive heading South. We were on our way quick smart.

First stop today was Sligo. If anyone wants to visit a cute Irish village full of charm this is not place to come. Very dreary and boring. Had a cuppa in the carpark (always have thermos packed) before continuing southwards.

Drove into Galway, not the least bit tempted to stop and look. Traffic very heavy, made a detour through centre of town which we hadn't planned on and nothing tempted us to stay longer. Headed for the coastal drive to take us past the Cliffs of Moher. A narrow winding road through many villages. Stunning scenery, at time great views of the Bay of Galway. Too early for the sun to be going down.....etc.

Very rural area, lots of sheep and cows, rock fences around paddocks which are very small, but I guess with all the feed in the paddocks the sheep would get lost if they were any bigger. Lots of feed in all paddocks.

We were lucky with the weather today, some drizzle on and off but mainly sunny. Not too warm when the wind was blowing. Needed a jacket most of the day.

Booked into our hotel in Limerick, The Clarion Suites, which we had booked through Expedia over the internet. Expected a hotel room with a couch and maybe a microwave.

Walking into our "room" was liking walking into fairyland. Enormous entry hall, to one side, a lounge room with couch, TV of course, two huge arm chairs and a dining table with four chairs, and ofice desk with free internet broadband socket. Turning left in the hall took us to a kitchen, bathroom and two bedrooms. One with a huge walk in wardrobe. (Didn't hang up my three t-shirts for fear they'd feel lonely there). Both bedrooms very spacious and with t.v's., and King size beds. Another door into a small area which we have no idea what its for, but guess it could be somewhere to park your motorised wheelchair, or maybe a wine cellar, or somewhwere to store all those supermarket plastic bags that keep accumulating in our suitcase. If we could get a ground floor unit like this in Melbourne I'd move in tomorrow!

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Tuesday 8th July

Quick drive through Limerick this morning. Looked like a big town, shops etc. Kept driving.

Hit the roads around the coast heading south. Went through many little villages along the River Shannon which in places is very wide then narrows again before reaching the ocean. Lots of towns names Bally something. Ballybunion, Ballylongford, Ballyduff etc. Near Ballylongford we came across the ruins of an old abbey. Driving in for a closer look we realised it was a cemetery. Graves around and also inside the walls of the ruins. Many people there tending to graves. One old man struck up a conversation with us, telling us some of the history of the abbey and pointing out features. Turns out his sister is a nun near Melbourne, now visiting the local village and he wanted us to go and say hello to her. He also gave us directions to the ruins of a castle. When we got there the visitors book had been signed this morning by a guy from Sydney. Bloody Australians are everywhere!

Kept following the coastal road until almost into Tralee then diverted and went to the Dingle Peninsula. This area would have to be the nicest area we have seen in Ireland to date. Rolling hills with 'patchwork' of fields covering them. the edges of the roads were lined with fuschia bushes with red flowers, lots of other wildflowers of white and yellow and the occasional purple foxglove amde it really pretty.

The town of Dingle was a bit of a disappointment. Very tourist oriented with many tour buses and lots of people everywhere. One shop proclaimed itself to be "the most western european hot dog shop'.

Got stuck behind a tour coach all the way to Killarney. Narrow road with nowhere to pass. Eventually made it to Killarney and booked into our B&B for two nights. Staying at Hussey's B&B, quite nice. They also have a bar downstairs where we ventured to have a guiness. Quaint little bar used by locals. Couldn't understand a word they were saying, although one man told Sue, guiness is "good for the body".

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Wednesday 9th July

After a full Irish breakfast we headed off for the Ring of Kerry. a round trip of about 175km. Weather was very cloudy with rain threatening. Stopped off at a few viewing sights along the way. Stopped at Waterville for a while and took our photo with Charlie Chaplin's statue opposite the hotel I stayed in with Val in '99.

Visited Derrynane House and National park which was the home of Dennis O'Connell who the main street in Dublin is named after. Strolled the gardens and saw plants we've never seen previously, they weren't named so we'll probably never find out what they a called. Had a cuppa there and saw our first Irish flies and got bitten by mosquitoes, so decided it wasn't a good place for a picnic after all. The grounds were very wet, lots of mud and pools of water laying about.

Many tour coaches on the road, though we were lucky to only get stuck behind one for a short time. After more scenic viewing, we stopped at the town of Sneem for a walk around and to hit the post office for stamps. While there an Insight tour coach pulled up...full of Australians.

Also stopped at Kenmare for a walk and to check out the market stalls in the main street. Wasn't tempted to buy anything. a very pretty town which has just won the Irish town of the year award.

Detoured down a few side roads looking for interesting sights. One just went to someone's house, the next a jetty with many boats at moorings. the water was like glass. Very pretty.

Had a few bursts of sunshine throughout the day, however, by the time we were almost back in Killarney the skies opened and it bucketed rain. The trafic slowed considerably and we crawled back into town. Went to the Lidl store and then back into peak, very slow traffic before finally getting back to Hussey's B&B.

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Thursday 10th July

We wanted to get an early start but breakfast didn't start until 8.30 a.m. and it's a long, long way to Tipperary....... Once we got there we wondered why anyone would want to. A very dull and boring town.

Our route today to Kilkenny (which is not all that far away from Killarney) was via minor roads through small villages. Some just a few houses, a church and a chinese restaurant. Have decide Ireland must have the most Chinese restaurants in the world outside China.

One of the most interesting towns was Cashel. Has a great monument called the Cashel Rock, really a castle on a hill, looked like it would have been very interesting from what we could see of it through the driving rain. Trying to get close to it we got soaking wet (again) and gave up. The rain kept pelting down all day as we continued on to Kilkenny.

Arrived in Kilkenny after 4pm and were met by the mother of the woman who owns the B&B, ( Kay, with a very beery breath), This woman could talk the leg off an iron pot. I thought my ears would drop off. After I had inspected the room and said it was okay, we booked in and had a cuppa in our room.

Then, as the rain was easing, we decided to go for a quick walk around town and buy a bottle of wine. Had to ask Kay for a town map. By the time we got the map complete with drawings and points of interest, best parking spots etc. marked on it, Phil's ears were nearly on the floor too. Wanted to ask directions to the grocery store but weren't game to, thinking it would take another 20 minutes.

Drove through the town which was very congested with traffic and tourist buses and eventually found a LIDL store and bought what we wanted. (Just a little drop of Red)... A quick walk through town, now with the sun out, to get our bearings for tomorrow and it was back to the B&B.

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Friday 11th July

After a full Irish Breakfast we set out for a walk to town. Took about 15 minutes brisk walking and first thing we spied was a shop with inernet access so went and checked on mail for the first time in several days.

It then started to rain again so we detoured into the Kilkenny Castle to avoid it. Took the tour which was quite interesting. The castle is in huge grounds but it was too wet to explore them. t was originally built in the 12th century. During his time, Cromwell tried to take this one over as well. Lucky that we got his head when we were in Nottingham a month or so ago. The Butler family who had owned the Castle for centuries, auctioned off all stuff inside, and moved out in the 1930's. They gifted it to "the people" during the 1960's, and much restoration is now continuing.

From there we wandered the town trying to avoid the rain by dodging into shops when necessary. Lots of little laneways to explore. We managed to find a park bench by the old town wall to have lunch. Then the black clouds forced us to seek shelter again. Walked via the river path and fed the ducks a left over sausage roll. Think they enjoyed it more than we did.

Back to the B&B to recuperate and then we had a walk around the local area. Obviously the wealthy side of town. Walked to just outside the city limits where many more housing estates are being built.

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PART  10 

Saturday 12th July

Left Kilkenny around 9.30 am and meandered towards Dublin. Didn't want to get there too early and have hassles with car parking etc. Drove through some small villages including Naas near where a huge music festival (Oxegen) is taking place this weekend. Naas is a "park and ride" venue. Was amusing to see people lined up at the bus stops with a couple of cases of beer and lots of luggage. Most people, regardless of whether they were wearing jeans, shorts or dresses, were wearing gumboots (wellies) of all colours and designs. Despite a wow of a time, apparently it always rains and becomes a quagmire at the rock festival. (As they do)

Another town we stopped in was Trim. Had a very impressive castle, the perimeter of which we walked around before the rain pelted down again. Cancelled the idea of going inside the grounds and we spent quite a while hiding under the awning of the local butchers shop before we could make it back to the car without getting soaked .... again.

Then on into Dublin airport area to book into our hotel before returning the hire car. We have driven a total of 1797 kilometres around Ireland in 10 days using 3 tanks and a top up of petrol.

Bright sunshine as we drove into the Dublin area.

Decided we would walk from Hertz car rental depot back to our hotel, (Holiday Inn) a distance of 2.4km. Then we looked at the sky. Huge black clouds about to drop their load. We chose to get the Hertz shuttle bus back to the airport and then the free shuttle to hotel from the airport. That proved a good idea as once again it poured rain.

Getting fed up with all this wet stuff!

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Sunday 13th July

Woke today and wondered where we were. No rain! Blue sky and sunshine! Decided we didn't want to go into Dublin city centre (8KM) again so explored the local area near the hotel.

Just wandered the suburban streets and finished up sitting in a park watching people walk their dogs. Actually, the people did most of the exercise, the dogs mainly sat and watched.

Soccer teams were assembling for a game, but after nearly and hour of watching them stand about, change jumpers, and just walk up and down, we gave up and left them to it.

Wandered back towards the hotel and found a shopping centre had opened at midday so went in to check it out. Nothing much we were interested in except getting something to eat. Also as this hotel has an ice machine (first one we've seen in England and Ireland) bought some beer so we could cool it down.

Spent the afternoon lazing around reading the Sunday paper and watching gaelic football on telly while enjoying our cold beer.

Have to pack tonight for an early start tomorrow and our flight back to Heathrow.

SOME OBSERVATONS OF IRELAND

L plate drivers drive on their own. (Scarey at times!) However the law is changing so that learners will have to be accompanied by a licenced driver. This is causing much comment in the papers as L platers think that is unfair and not necessary. It doesn't appear that there is any probationary period once the licence is obtained.

Bicycle riders do not have to wear safety helmets. The only head gear we have seen worn by riders is the cloth caps worn by old men.

Gaelic football seems pretty big here and draw big crowds. They seem to throw the ball more than kick it.

Australia is trying to lure Irish doctors by advertising in the papers. A six month contract in Melbourne OR Perth will give Irish doctors and their families a free return ticket to any Australian capital once a month on their time off. ( 8 days on 6 days off) As there is a shortage of doctors over here it is receiving a lot of comment in the papers.

Food and wine are much more expensive than England (and we thought that was dear). As Aussies we are shocked by what the average person would pay for a weekly food bill. Take away food is ridiculous. Large Pizza at a chain like Dominos around Aus $30. Mc Donald's junior burger around Aus $4.00. 2.5kg bag of spuds on super special Aus $8.00.

(Ireland is the land of spuds...isn't it?..guess it is if you can afford them).

Cask of cheap wine ..3 litres... YES 3...around Aus $34.00.

People are friendly and helpful. Mind you, a lot of them are Polish. Big community of Polish people around Ireland, Polish grocery stores etc. A bit of a concern here that Polish trades people are returning home as the Irish economy declines and Polands is booming.

The local bakers in small villages sell...bread... plain scones..fruit scones..and apple tarts. Nothing else.

In Spar stores (like 7-11) or supermarkets you can buy pies (sometimes) and sausage rolls. A standard sausage roll is one sausage wrapped in pastry. A large sausage roll is two sausages wrapped in pastry.

Most pubs have traditional Irish music every night. A bit like the "Bushwackers" everywhere you go.

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Monday 14th July

Up at 5.30 am today to get ready for early flight to London. Hotel shuttle bus left promptly at 7am and we were a the airport 10 minutes later. Booked in and then bought a newspaper to read until 9am flight. We were supposed to start boarding at 8.30, but didn't until aftr 9. Then, once everyone was on board and strapped in it was announced that due to congestion at London airport the flight would be delayed for another 45 minutes. When we did take off the flight was uneventful and we landed somewhere at Heathrow and then had to pile onto a bus to get us to the baggage area. We waited for the luggage, and waited some more. 40 minutes later our bag arrived and then we had to find the underground station to get us to London central. One false start and we were off and away. Train took about 55 minutes to Kings Cross Station where we wandered about util we found our hotel for the next four nights.

Once booked in and after a coffee we wandered locally for a couple of hours. Once we had found a Tesco we stocked up on essentials and went back to the hotel for a cold beer. It was well deserved by then.

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Tuesday 15th July

A slow start this morning as we wanted to go to the British Museum which doesn't open until 10 a.m. Walked there via Bernard street where Phil's mystery Uncle Edgar was born. Then through Russell Square Gardens where he might have played. (Might not have too).. Then on to the museum in the next street.

Wasn't too busy when we arrived but that soon changed. Became very crowded and very noisy. We spent several hours there wandering the exhibitions. Those Poms have stolen good stuff from all over the world and proudly boast they have more relics from the Acropolis and Parthenon than the Greek museums. Plus a huge collection from Egypt with lots of mummies etc.

After leaving there we walked to the west end and had a very late lunch/early dinner in a pub there. (A Wetherspoons one again. We have found that pub chain to have good basic stuff with same menu around the UK. Coupled with "Monday deals", "Tuesday deals" etc it is a very affordable and a predictable option compared to everything else we have come across in UK. Probably best compared to Dennys in USA or Sizzler/La porchetta in Aust. We tended to seek them out after we discovered them). After a meal deal which included a pint, we walked back to the hotel arriving back around 6pm. where we were glad to get our shoes off.

Today is the warmest we have had since leaving London two weeks ago, around 25C and more warm weather tomorrow. I (phil) had the first "shorts day" in the past 8 weeks. Had only been out of London for two weeks but had forgotten how busy and noisy the streets are with traffic and people.

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Wednesday 16th July

This morning we had a short walk to the Canal Museum. After walking the Regents Canal to Little Venice on our last stay in London, we were fascinated to learn more about it. The museum was about 15 minutes walk from our hotel. Got there not too long after opening but a school excursion had beaten us to it. Noise level was pretty loud in such a small museum. However, we were thoroughly enjoying it until a bus load of Japanese tourists arrived. The noise level quadrupled! In Japanese! I think they were totally bemused by the whole thing, don't think any of them could read or speak English, more interested in using the toilets than the museum itself. At the time they arrived we were watching a silent movie of canal boats moving cargo along the waterways. If there had been any commentary to listen to it would have been lost. They were in and out very quickly so we continued our tour. A very interesting museum, would recommend anyone to see it.

After we left there Phil (wearing shorts and T) was feeling a little cold so we came back to the hotel for a coffee and for him to put on warmer clothes. We then decided to get the underground to Trafalgar Square to go to the National Gallery. We entered the underground at the first sign for Kings Cross underground and then spent the next 10 minutes walking up and down stairs, along passageways and onto escalators only to discover the line we had planned to get has changed routes and we had to backtrack to another line and change trains further down the track.

Eventually arrived at Charing Cros near Trafalgar Square. Most of the square is covered with hoardings and a huge screen on which they are showing "Figaro" live fron the opera house each evening.

Spent a few hours wandering the National Gallery admiring the works of art. A great collection and could spend lots more time there. As with everywhere it was very crowded.

Decided then to walk back towards 'home' and headed off along The Strand and Fleet Street before turning into our street, Farringdon, and continuing on our way. Love looking at all the old buildings along the way. Passed Australia House and spent time trying to work out the significance of the statues out the front. Decided it depicts late afternoon after a boozy barbecue. Man lying on the ground (no doubt passed out), woman shirtless (probably having a hot flush) and another man standing over horses wearing a funny hat (a farmer heeding warnings about skin cancer). Very Australian!

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Thursday 17th July

Walked along the Grand Union Canal tow path to Camden Lock which took about 45 minutes. Weather overcast but reasonably warm. Camden markets were in full swing, mainly clothes and jewellery. Markets are comprised of several venues along the street. One was built in old stables and had many life size horse statues about the area. While there the rain started and fortunately we had our pocket brollies. Waited around a while for it to stop but eventually gave up and walked in the rain. (At least we are getting good value from our brollies this year.)

Walked back down Camden High Street, over Euston and along Tavistock Street. As always we are amazed that turning a corner we can encounter a 'new' suburban area of shops, cafes and small parks etc.

Had lunch back in the hotel and after teas and coffees and handwashing some gear we went to Tesco for some last minute mixers to mix with the vodka we plan to smuggle on board ship tomorrow.

You may remember that the cruise line agents in London were taking one of our cases back to their offices when we disembarked from our Arctic Circle cruise. We have been in touch with them again, and have been told that we need to do nothing more, the next time we will see it is in our cabin tomorrow. Extraordinary service from an extraordinary team of people here.

PART  11 

Friday 18th July

Left the hotel just before 10.30 am to head to Kings Cross underground station. No trouble getting on the train with our luggage. Off the train at Victoria and a short walk had us at the Green Bus line terminal to meet our coach to take us to Tilbury.

Once there we met the Cruise and Maritime travel rep. who assured us that the luggage they had been minding for us had already been delivered to our cabin. We then had a speedy embarkation process and were soon on board. Sure enough our case was waiting for us. Dumped our hand luggage and hot footed it to the pooldeck where handmade pizzas from the deck pizza oven were one of the offerings for a late lunch. Then wandered the ship until it was time for dinner. Our four dinner companions all seem to be nice and very friendly.

After a leisurely dinner we filled in time until the first nights entertainment. Had seen it on the last cruise, Mamma Mia, but it was still very good.

A hard working and talented bunch of performers. Finished the night off in Scotts Bar listening to the trio there.

Have educated our cabin steward to our ice requirements. Our steward has promised to charge our ice bucket each afternoon and evening. Coming on for the last cruise and this one, they don't seem to xray "checked" luggage to target alcohol being brought aboard. We have managed to bring on vodka, gin and red wine. (All hidden throughout our luggage, and in "alternative packaging" (in case they were going to discover it and send us to the naughty room)). We also brought concentrated mixers on with us with hand luggage, so combining a balance of buying from bar, and making our own drinks, our final bill wont be too astronomical.

Wider age range of passengers on this cruise compared to Norway trip. From early teens to 80's.

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Saturday 19th July

An 'at sea' day today. After breakfast we sat outside for a while until the rain sent us looking for cover. Been drizzling off and on since then. Got some books from the library to keep entertained in the dull periods.

Joined some other passengers for the daily quiz. Between the five of us we only got 10 out of 20 questions right. Considering several of the questions were very "English", we held up our end of the points scoring.

Played quick game of bingo this afternoon and for an outlay of 5 pounds we won 80 pounds. On the Marco Polo they don't take any commission, which is a point of difference to other ships. Whatever they take is given back totally as prize money. We won the 3rd game which has the biggest prize. (We won a ~$650AUD jackpot on this ship last year, so we may play again :O).

As soon as we started dinner, the ship entered the Western lock for the Keil Canal. This is statistically the busiest canal in the world, (70,000 vessels/yr), surpassing traffic in both the Suez and Panama canals. It took about 8 hours for us to travel the 99KM length, with lots of people lining the banks to have a squiz at the Marco Polo. Most of our welcoming committees appeared to be holiday makers in mobile homes camped by the canal, or staying in RV parks. Did our royalty impressions while standing in the rain on the front deck of the ship by waving to all along the canal side and were rewarded with lots of waves back, RV's tooting their horns and flashing lights at us. The captain of the ship joined in at one stage with a long blast on the ships horn. Our ship is is one of the largest permitted thru the canal(860 passengers), due to bridge height restrictions. Larger cruise ships have to go the long way around the top of Denmark to travel from North Sea to Baltic Sea. We were told that the fees payable for us to transit amount to EURO 15,000, which in Oz is around $25,000.

Of particular note is the huge number of wind farms in action, with many hundreds of generators, both before and during the transit. We, cynically wonder, where they got their planning permits?? Maybe they dont have Yellow Bellied Parrots or Flying Blue Striped Talking lizards to impede progress here.

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Sunday 20th July

Arrived in Warnemunde, Germany, this morning. Once we were cleared to leave the ship we headed straight for the railway station and after having bought tickets (4.30 euro for a day ticket) boarded the train for a 20 minute ride to Rostock. The ticket would have covered us for train, tram and buses in the district. Once off the train we opted to walk into the town, about 10 minutes away. It was extremely quiet, few cars and very few people about.

In the centre of town we collected a town map from the tourist centre and went walking. Being a Sunday morning almost everything was shut. The most prominent building in the town is the town hall. Rather elaborate and with a fancy roofline. The cathedral is undergoing renovations and the inside was filled with scaffolding so hard to appreciate much inside there. On several street corners were vending machines selling cigarettes. We at first thought that they were pay stations for parking on the streets. We found the old section of town more interesting and wandered the streets and laneways until the weather turned wet...again, so we headed back to the railway station.

Once back in Warnemunde we went back to the ship for a late lunch, and waited until the weather cleared before setting out to explore the town. It is a very nice place. The afternoon was fine and the town obviously popular with Germans coming for a day at the seaside. Warnemunde has a huge wide sandy beach divided into sections where you can hire a deck chair for the day. There was also some type of water sport competition going on but we couldn't get close enough to work out exactly what. One hotel was flying several Australian flags, but dont know why.

Lots of cute buildings along the cobblestone streets. Along the river marina area were many fish vendors, mainly selling smoked fish of all varieties. Large fish smoking cabinets were next to the market stalls. Other food stalls were mainly sausage stalls, bratwurst etc. Smelt good but didn't try any. Could have had our photo taken with a rather large python draped around us but didn't try that either.

Several buskers along the way contributed to the fun atmosphere of the town. Nice place!

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Monday 21st July

Another 'at sea' day. Spent most of the day doing nothing, just hanging around waiting for the next meal to be ready so we'd have something to do....eat.

Returning to our cabin at one stage we found an invitation to dine with the crew. i.e at the Captain's table. We accepted of course.

During the day, our "eddie everywhere" Richard Sykes, the very talented cruise director, was giving choir/singing lessons which we nearly got roped into, (can you imagine us)??. Later in the afternoon he was at it again, doing a solo piano/singing performance in another lounge. (Gershwin)

Tonight was also the Captains reception where the Captain introduces the heads of the departments to the passengers. Also free champagne, and horses doovers. Managed three glasses there before we had to meet for dinner. One other couple were also invited to the dinner. Our captain turned out to be the Staff Captain (as different from the Ships Captain. Ship captain was to dine at the second sitting, and we were at first), and the tour manager. More champagne for pre dinner drinks (and nibbles), in a secluded lounge before we were escorted to the captains table at the head of the dining room. Once there, both red and white wine was offered (and plenty of it). Had a very enjoyable time. Staff Captain Andrey Domanin is from the Ukraine and very friendly. He ordered Australian wine to accompany dinner. He's spent time in Australia so we had a good chat about places he's been to and would like to see when he returns.

Have absolutely no idea why were were singled out for the gala dinner. Could it be that we were the only Aussies on board, that we won Bingo the other day, or maybe that we wrote a critical review of the cruise we took to North Cape a few weeks ago? This was published on Cruise Critic and also here on

http://www.cruise.co.uk/cruise-reviews/read/review_s7139/ (Transoceans UK people were actually aware of the review's existence)

After dinner attended the show in the theatre lounge. Excellent, as always.

Finished the night at the "Elvis" cabaret in the upstairs lounge. Apart from the ships Cruise Director who was "Elvis" we also had an Indian Elvis, one of the passengers who was runner up in an "Elvis" competition on TV in England. He looked more like one of the Blues Brothers.

Overall, another great day. This is becoming a habit.

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Tuesday 22nd July

Around midday, we arrived at Tallin, Estonia, a medieval walled city. We took a leisurely lunch whilst everyone who were taking guided tours got on their way. We then headed off for a walk from the cruise terminal to the city, which is only about a kilometre. Exiting from the docks, a couple of tourist board girls handed us a map, which made life a little easier for the next few hours of wandering around. Estonia is not part of the EU, so we had to be armed with passports although no one asked to see them.

We entered the old town through one of the gates in the city wall. Streets were cobblestoned and reasonably wide for an old town. First stop was to inspect an old church. Free entry to this one although a charge was made if you wanted to climb to the top of the tower. Churches closer to the centre of the town all charged admission fees. Wandered along to the town square where lots of restaurants had tables and umbrellas set up. They mostly had cute "Estonian" ??? names like "Molly Malone" and "Waynes coffes shop".

Main souvenirs were linen goods, tablecloths, aprons, pot holders etc. All beautifully embroidered. Many small stalls selling knitted jumpers, socks and hats. In one area was a huge flower market. And, of course, a McDonalds.

Once out of the old town we crossed a very busy road with trams running very frequently. Entered a huge four storey shopping centre which had every time of shop a huge shopping centre usually has.

Walked around the outside of the town wall along a very busy main road on our way back to the ship.

It was a short visit to Tallin, only 5 hours, but another pleasant "non rushed" day in nice weather.

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Wednesdsy 23rd July

Before going to bed, it was required once again, to put our clocks forward, so we lost another hour (our third time this week).

Had breakfast on the outside rear deck as we were tugged up river into St Petersburg Russia. We had booked organised excursions from the ship months ago, since passengers taking "official Tours" do not need to spend all the time, effort and expense of obtaining an individual tourist visa for Russia.

We had organised tours on shore for both days of our stay.

Headed off just after 9 a.m. to 'front' the ladies of Russian immigration department. We had been warned not to upset them, have the right documentation etc.

We both got through okay and even got a smile and a 'good morning' from one. then we were on the bus heading to Peterhof which is about 27 km from St Petersburg. The drive took us through the city and suburbs before some very green and wooded areas before we arrived at the the palace. There is a big contrast between the crowded high rise apartment blocks and the country homes of the richer folk as we got closer to Peterhof.

Had a brief walk in the upper gardens before entering the palace itself and touring the rooms. All visitors must wear shoe coverings to protect the floors and we all shuffled around trying not to slip over. The rooms, as expected, were very ornate, lots of gold leaf, statues, silk wall paper and huge chandeliers. Each room has a 'lady' watching over tourists and telling the tour gouide when to move on. Again we were told not to upset the ladies by touching anything. We said hello to each of them and one or two smiled back at us, but it was hard going to get any reaction from them.

Lunch was in a restaurant in what was the original conservatory.

We then walked in the lower gardens admiring the many fountains and garden beds of many types of flowers. The whole area is beautifully maintained.

The palace of Peterhof is not the original building. The original was bombed out during the war and while many articles had been hoarded to protect them, much was lost. The building as it stands today is supposedly the same as the original. And who are we to know any different?

Our transport back to the city was by hydrofoil which took about 40 minutes and delivered right to the centre of town. We then boarded the bus again for sightseeing around town, the highlight being the Church of the Spilled Blood. A truly beautiful building with spires and multi coloured mosaics covering the building. Unfortunately it is CLOSED on Wednesdays so we could only admire the building itself and not the inside. We walked to the main street in St Petersburg and it was very busy with cars, buses and trams. The many pedestrians made it difficult to navigate the footpaths so we headed back to meet the coach for tranfer back to the ship.

Arrived back to the ship around 5.30pm.

Next weekend is a Naval Festival in which the Russian Naval Fleet comes to town. Already the river has many warships and submarines berthed in the town area

and many more are expected before the weekend festivities begin.

Back on board, tonight is party night on the pool deck, so we had better stop typing this right now, and go party!!

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Thursday 24th July,

A sluggish start to the day after a late night and many liquid refreshments.

However, on the bus at 9.15 for a short drive to meet the canal boat which took us up and around some of the canals of St. Petersburg. There are many canals running through the city though not as many as there used to be as some have been filled in. The tour took us past many interesting buildings. Some now museums, others converted into apartments. Lots of restoration work going on along the canals.

We disembarked the canal boat at Yusapov Palace. The tour of the palce included the dungeon where Rasputin was poisoned and shot before being dumped in the river. The palace itself was filled with beautiful rooms and artworks, statues and furniture.

Each room had a 'lady who must be obeyed' in the corner. Had trouble getting any of them to smile today. The ladies in the souvenir shop, on the other hand, never stopped smiling while trying to get us to buy something.

Our guide, Olga, was excellent. Told us lots of the history which we had never heard of and is very proud that the Nazis never made it into St Petersburg. Olga speaks very good English and told us she teaches English at the university here.

We returned to the ship around 1p.m. and spent most of the afternoon on the back deck in the sunshine, Yesterday and today were both 25C. Very warm, had to dig the sunscreen out again.

Would have liked to spend time just wandering St. Petersburg but only had the ships visa which meant we could not wander on our own. There were many more museums and monuments we would have liked to visit but didn't have enough time.

We turn the clock back tonight, so regain one of the hours we have 'lost'.

PART  12

Friday 25th July

Arrived into Helsinki Finland. The ship was docked about 15 minutes walk from the main town. On the waterfront area were many market stalls selling souvenirs, knitted goods, reindeer leather and moose horn objects, fruit and vegetables and fish. Our walk took us around town, past the main railway station and to the University botanical gardens. Had a brief sit there before continuing on to the largest cathedral in Helsinki which is on a hill overlooking the city square. Helsinki is mostly level and pleasant to walk around. Large park areas around the city break up the monotony of city buildings. Not too many high rise buildings here but 7 McDonalds stores. Guess they like their burgers! The city is surrounded by water on three sides so many lovely views of water and marinas to gaze at.

Having walked the city we then inspected the quayside markets more closely. The old market hall was a treasure trove of Finnish food stuffs. Reindeer, moose and bear salami was available. Lots of smoked salmon. No free samples here though. Reindeer, moose and bear meat could also be bought in tins. Would have bought some but was unsure as to whether we'd be allowed to bring it back to Ausralia.

Some stalls in the cooked food section of the quayside market were handing out samples of cooked fish so we tasted the freshly crumbed and fried whitebait. Yummy!!

A 'farmers market' was operating out of some boats tied at the dock. Mainly selling potatoes and fish.

We walked back to the ship a different way and passed through some residential areas of apartment buildings. The city is serviced by what appeared to be a very frequent tram service, buses and trains. Helsinki is a place to come back to, many islands and lakes inland to explore.

The day was very warm, around 26C, and the pool deck was very crowded in the afternoon as everyone tried to laze about in the sunshine. The pool had been filled with Baltic Sea water which is disgustingly murky. No-one ventured into the pool.

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Saturday 26th July

In Stockholm, Sweden today. The ship was berthed some distance from the city and it was hot so decided to get the hop on hop off bus from the terminal. The ship had advised that euros and US dollars were not accepted by the bus companies and a credit card would have to be used if we didn't have kroner. However, the bus rep. was more than happy to take any money at all. We paid in US dollars, that being the easiest for us to do a quick mental conversion of the cost.

We were on the first bus to leave the dock and arrived in town just after 9am to find most things shut and the regular hop on hop off bus not beginning until 10 a.m. We walked along the waterfront admiring the great scenery, interesting buildings and the many boats of all sizes moored along the way. Our bus ticket included a ferry boat ride so we hopped that and did a tour of a couple of islands before getting off at Stockholms equivalent of luna park. We walked to the other side of the road where there was a circus and zoo to catch the bus to begin our tour of Stockholm. Did the round trip admiring the the scenery along the way.

Alighted at a stop in the middle of a busy city area and walked down a huge pedestrian mall, across the river to the old city. Wandered the streets there getting hotter by the minute. Temperature got to 32C, not good for walking. Found some interesting laneways and squares before we entered the Royal Palace.

We missed the changing of the guard but figure that didn't matter as it was too hot to be in such a crowded and unshaded area anyway. The poor guard left at the sentry box looked most uncomfortable in his uniform and hat in the heat but chatted with tourists who were lined up to have their photo taken with him. (Unlike the guards at Buckingham Palace who never crack a smile).

We entered the palace courtyard and also walked down many winding steps to a dungeon area only to find they charged a small fortune to actually enter the interesting parts. Each section was separately charged for, so we decided not to go in and trudged back up the winding staircase.

Another walk along the waterfront and we decided that the heat was just too much so waited around and caught the special shuttle bus back to the ship, arriving back around 2p.m.

For the first time this cruise the umbrellas had been put out on the back deck. Not very many of them and after many people asking, the crew finally brought more out. On the one day people would have liked to swim the pool was empty, the murkey water of the day before having been emptied and not replaced.

Sat around for the rest of the afternoon nursing our vodka and lemon drinks in our insulated cups listening to people say "Isn't it hot?". Many sunburnt sore and sorry people by the end of the day.

Sailing out of Stockholm between the islands was a spectacular sight. Many islands with houses of varying sizes and lots of water craft moored nearby. Many people swimming and lots having barbecues along the shore. Lots of arm waving from those on ship and also along the shore.

The evening was fantastic once the heat of the sun disappeared. We sat on the back deck until nearly midnight enjoying the night air.

Stockholm is another place where it would be great to come back and explore the waterways and many islands.

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Sunday 27th July

Lazy, Not so Hazy crazy day of summer at sea today, as we head towards Denmark. Top temp around 30C. Hot!! The pool was refilled and with the water looking much better than the day before many people hopped in to cool down.

This morning Phil took up the invitation of the Staff Captain to tour the bridge of the ship. I wasn't particularly interested so Phil asked Peter, one dinner companions, to go with him. They both enjoyed it and it's reassuring to know that there's now two more people who can drive us home if the captain falls overboard.

While Phil was doing this I played bingo (and failed to win again) and chatted to Peter's wife Eileen. The rest of the day was spent doing nothing much but filling in time between meals and cooling down with drinky poos . Thank heavens for afternoon tea which fills the gap between lunch and dinner.

Tonight was the Grand Buffet Night at 11.45pm. We went to look as the food is beautifully displayed, fruit carvings, elaborately decorated cakes etc., but didn't stay to eat. The line of lookers and potential eaters was lined up out the doorway so we sneaked in the other entrance, took photos and left them to it.

These late nights are becoming a habit. Not good when we have to be up early to see Copenhagen tomorrow.

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Monday 28th July

Arrived early in Copenhagen and were out walking before 8.30a.m. We followed the waterfront path and went by the famous Little Mermaid statue. she is actually not as small as we thought it would be. We had collected the local tourist map from the info centre and decided to follow the recommended tourist walk.

Our first stop was Mary's house. We called but Mary did not come out to play. The palace is built around a square with a statue in the centre. Guards stood in sentry boxes at each corner of the square all decked out in uniform complete with fluffy hat (??? can't think of name). Poor guy was sweltering in the 30C heat. We continued on our way past fountains and a nice canal area with some nice houses and moored boats quite close to the main streets.

Following the route we walked along what is claimed to be the longest pedestrian mall in Europe. All the usual shops, McDonalds, Burger King and KFC.

Also walked past the University and through a large park nearby. To get back to the ship we crossed a moat surrounding an island which houses army barracks.

it appeared to be a popular spot with locals out for a walk or bike ride. Bikes can be collected and dropped off at various points around the town, the deposit you pay to get the bike is returned when give it back.

Copenhagen is a clean city but has no "wow" factor to it. Interesting buildings, a unique "Danish" architecture, in much the same way other cities in Europe have thier own "uniqueness". Nice to visit but wouldn't come back. (We would never want to go back to Uluru or Coober Pedy either) Maybe the rest of Denmark has more to offer.

Once the ship sailed we spent the afternoon trying to find somewhere on deck to sit out of the sun. Chairs and umbrellas on the pool deck were in short supply with everyone outside so finished up in one of the air conditioned lounges most of the afternoon.

On our way out of Copenhagen we passed under a huge bridge which spans the sea from Denmark to Somewhere. Will have to google it for the details when we can. Was a great sight with the sun setting behind it.

Tonight was the Gala Dinner, Phil was very happy with his steak and we had to endure the Bombe Alaska parade before heading to a show.

Had yet another pleasant night outside on the pool deck until after midnight.

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Tuesday 29th July

When we woke this morning the ship had already entered the Kiel Canal. Had breakfast on the deck and then sat watching the landscape until we were almost ready to enter the Western lock between the canal and the open sea. Went to the front of the ship to watch the process. It usually takes about 40 minutes for the boat to be moored and the opening of the lock to take place. Unfortunately, while we were in the lock one of the passengers had a fall on the ship and had to be evacuated for medical treatment. In one way the passenger was lucky (?) it happened when it did as it saved the necesssity of a helicopter evacuation. Believe the lady has fractured her arm but we'll probably never know for sure.

Once the lady had been taken away by ambulance we were soon on our way again.

Passed several beaches with many people swimming and boating on the coast of Germany.

The rest of the afternoon passed slowly, as sea days always do. Had our last dinner with Barbara, Hilda, Peter and Eileen who have all been charming, friendly and interesting dinner companions.

Watched the last show in the lounge which was excellent as always. The highlight this show was the singing of one of the security people on the ship. Ramona is a trained opera singer and performed two songs which earned her a standing ovation. A great voice and a terrific personality. A couple of days ago she sang "I still call Australia home" to us whilst she swiped our cards when we went ashore.

Finally packed our cases and had them outside the door ready for collection just before the midnight deadline.

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Wednesday 30th July

Had to vacate our cabin by 8a.m. so they could prepare for the next cruise. Starting this afternoon the ship was to circumnavigate British Isles. Once we had breakfast we grabbed the last things from our cabin (backpack and computer) and wandered upstairs to look for somewhere to wait. Met up with Barbara and Hilda so sat and talked with them until the luggage had been unloaded and it was time to go ashore. We were on the coach to Victoria at 10.30 a.m. and on our way shortly afterwards.

The trip back into London was quite quick, just over an hour, there not being much traffic until we hit the centre of town. Said our final goodbyes to Hilda and Barbara and we set off to find our overnight accommodation, the Central House Hotel in Belgrave Road. It was only a short walk from the coach station so we stored our bags in the luggage room (too early to book in) and set off for a walk.

First stop was an internet cafe so we could check up on mail. We had 164 mails in the box but only half a dozen that we were glad to get. All the rest were junk.

Checked out the local Pimlico shopping area and wandered towards Victoria Station. Found a Wetherspoons Hotel so stopped in for a burger and beer. It was then time to check into the the hotel.

We have been upgraded to a 'quad' room. No idea why, but may rent out the spare beds to help pay the rent. Room okay but NO air conditioning and London is having a heatwave. 27C today and the same expected tomorrow.

After a cuppa we set off to walk the local area. Wandered down to the Thames pathway and looked at the water. (Having withdrawal symptoms after having looked at water for twelve days!)

Strolled along until we came to the Tate Museum. This is the real one, with real paintings, not like the scribble in the Tate Modern. Spent some time wandering and were quite amused to see there is a "living" exhibition where every 30 seconds a person runs as fast as they can through the long gallery.

If we ever meet a person who tells us they "run an art gallery", we'll now know exactly what they mean.

The museum was closing when we left so we headed back towards the hotel stopping off at the shops to try and find a cold beer. Finally got one at the off licence on the corner opposite the hotel. We now refer this as 'our fridge' and take it in turns to run across the road to get a coldie.

Early night tonight as the late nights on the pool deck have caught up with us.

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Thursday 31st July

Last days of hols. After booking our of hotel we left our luggage in their storage room for later collection. Walked to Buckingham Palace, past the mews where huge crowds were lined up to inspect the inside of the palace for the princely (or should that be queenly?) price of 15.50 pounds. (Over $30)

Huge crowds outside the palace forcourt were jostling for position to see the changeing of the guard ceremony. We got a position on the opposite side of the road outside St James park. The horse guards trooped past followed by a much needed street sweeper to clean up after the horses. The ceremony itself was impossible to see because of the crowds.

From there we walked down Birdcage Walk past Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament to the south side of the Thames River. More huge crowds there waiting for their turn on the London Eye. Lots of buskers along the river bank.

Eventually found our way back to St James park and sat and watched the ducks, geese and squirrels for a while. Needed a sit out of the sun for a while. Very hot (high 20's) and humid with some scattered showers.

On our way back to the hotel we passed the Horse Guards area and were entertained for a while as they practised their marching accompanied by the band. Got much better views than the time they spent in the morning at the palace.

Collected our luggage and were soon on the underground heading to Heathrow.

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Friday 1st, Saturday 2nd August

Where did Friday go?? Twenty three hours after leaving London we arrived back in Melbourne just after 6.a.m Saturday. Got some sleep between London and Singapore but not much after that.

Hopped the airport bus and tram and were home around 8.am. Good to see the tickets inspectors work early on Saturdays. Had our tickets checked before we had left the city.

First thing we did once we got home was to make a cuppa and start on the washing.

Back to reality.